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Way to ensure rump is tender is to cook it well (duh) and then be sure to slice it AGAINST the grain. With most other cuts you can get away with it, but rump & oyster blade/skirt/hanger/flank you really can't

I found rump works best for tender medium almost medium well, but that all depends on fat streaks too

Don't know how to cut against grain, I remember you showing me in an isolated snow chalet but it was wasted on me

Can't sleep, Greg's cursed car will eat me.

Maybe you have a similar number of issues as anyone with a 400kw <8 cylinder car (post new engine) except:

1) they keep it on the down low

2) not daily driven

I found rump works best for tender medium almost medium well, but that all depends on fat streaks too

Don't know how to cut against grain, I remember you showing me in an isolated snow chalet but it was wasted on me

I'll show you, even a vegetarian knows how to cut against the grain.

Can't sleep, Greg's cursed car will eat me.

Maybe you have a similar number of issues as anyone with a 400kw <8 cylinder car (post new engine) except:

1) they keep it on the down low

2) not daily driven

Lol no...

I'll show you, even a vegetarian knows how to cut against the grain.

You couldn't cut against the grain on the grainiest day of your life if you had an electrified grain cutting machine

Leeroy iracing half price renewal for 1 year 49.95 till end of June.. tempting but i'm not getting on there much these days

My brothers 33 gtst is STILL in some shop, been there for months and apparently all they've done is polish the plenum LOL

Apparently they need him to get a friend to bring their r33 in so they can compare whats in the engine bay or whats missing? wtf?

I keep telling him to sell the thing, problem after problem as it's been modded and screwed around with far too much now, he should of kept it at the reliable/responsive 250rwkw he had it at..

he's 28 on good money and been 'borrowing' mums car dafaqq

Edited by UNR33L

Lol no...

Can't sleep, Greg's cursed car will eat me.

Maybe you have a similar number of issues as anyone with a 400kw <8 cylinder car (post new engine) except:

1) they keep it on the down low

2) not daily driven

Well lets go over a few points here

1) I keep additional breakages on the down low

2) it's not daily driven, mainly due to fear.. and the fact I work 6 minutes from where I live, so it isn't even up to temp when getting here, and also fear

..it broke down about 1km from my house btw.. after doing 300+kms on the weekend..

Also the issue itself deserves mentioning...

How does one relay work but every other relay not work, when they share the exact same pins?

Car primes

crank car, got fuel pressure

start car, no fuel... until it runs for ~10 seconds then its fine

sure ok

Wire up a button to force the pump to pump, in the idea of holding it down until the car stops being retartded

this works, cool, but we're using a 30A supercheap relay

Put 70 back in. Same pins.

Problem different. Car won't run unless button is held in.

f**k it, whatever, use the normally closed option on the 70 relay to make the pump actually f**king pump all of the time even if the car is off, plug it in in the boot to go for a drive. Cool.

Until of course, that doesn't work anymore either

Car turns over

Fuel pump primes and is pumping, just stalled and refuses to start

No fuses blown

best idea so far is I've somehow blown a fuel line inside the fuel tank

Side note: I didn't need your tank Simon as, well, the issue was with the tank lid itself.

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