Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But... I also have none of dem e85 problems...

... going by Birds' comment, he's saving not a great deal by being on 98, for less performance.

It used to be CHEAPER than running 98, it's now marginally more expensive.

Is more inconvienient though.

Just sayin, if you have the means to alter and do your cold start yourself, E85 is a non issue to get going in the morning.

Car started on second crank this morning, leading me to believe that unless the 98 mix isn't pure enough (doubt it, given 59L/63L), I may have an injector issue be it a leak or blockage. If I recall correctly my car always did this since I put the injectors in...and E85 tune obviously exacerbates the issue into a 5-6 crank start up on cold mornings.

In the scheme of things for you it's probably not a big deal, especially as you don't daily it, but for everyone else who don't have tow trucks camping outside our house like velociraptors, we expect to get going quickly each morning

And not to wear out our starter motors

A few minutes, yeah, that's annoying, but 6 cranks...

We are speaking 6 cranks right? Not 6 full on attempts to start it and the car failing to start/stalling before being able to successfully leave the driveway, yeah?

6 cranks (which is literally 2 seconds) is quite different to 5 full minutes of general swearing about how shit E85 is in winter.

A few minutes, yeah, that's annoying, but 6 cranks...

We are speaking 6 cranks right? Not 6 full on attempts to start it and the car failing to start/stalling before being able to successfully leave the driveway, yeah?

6 cranks (which is literally 2 seconds) is quite different to 5 full minutes of general swearing about how shit E85 is in winter.

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

Your tune be shitty mate. :P

Thing is my bros and Jasons did the same thing cold starting tuned by a probably the most popular tuner..

I think it's normal, how's yours Simon?

Fox RNB friday again woot

Edited by UNR33L

The tuner is likely guessing the cold start mixtures unless it's a 2 degree morning when he tunes it from cold. As Greg said, the best cold start mapping is achieved by yourself fiddling on cold mornings, once you get it right it should start just fine.

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

This is a bad tune (or at least worse than mine).

To be fair, it can be tricky to get right.

But it can be made to be right.

My car (of all cars!) will crank over 3-4 times and start at any temp on E85, through one attempt of turning the key and I'm on my way, ready for my car to break something else.

It can be done, hence my confusion on the subject. 6 turns of the key is quite different to 6 turns of the starter motor to get up and going on the way to work.

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

This'd be a dream for me atm...

Mine rolled into the tuner with 1/4 tank of ~P100, drained with the fuel pump and topped off with E85... so the tune was done in warm weather with ~10% Petrol

Started up 2nd or 3rd rotation of the engine on the first crank in the following weeks (barely driven), but after the next track day (and multiple tanks of E85 bringing it back to a Pure mixture) it turned to crap.

4-5 Cranks of ~5 seconds each... not even giving a cough until the 3rd crank, and once it was running I could even touch the throttle until the water temp got up to 40/50c, anything more than 10% throttle would cause the engine to choke out and revs to drop to stalling danger zone.

Once running and warm, it was perfect for the rest of the day... But trying to cold start an E85 car with an incomplete cold start tune, before 6am, with a Ti straight through exhaust... It's not my idea of a fun time. I'm sure it'll be perfect after dropping it back into the tuner for a few days to get a touch up now that the variables (fuel and temp) are correct...

But Birds is right, E85 doesn't have the appeal it used to for street cars, mainly due to the price coming back up so the savings no longer counter the inconvenience and increased usage (reducing range)

Ric I normally dig the styles but that "nanna's just made us marmalade on toast" shirt is ruining it for me...the colour contrast works but dat pattern damn

It's a bit more poppin irl :(

Hamish is a notorious gingham warrior, he can back me up

  • Like 1

Truthfully, all tuning (other than power tuning) takes a lot of time, a lot of logging, a lot of driving around, cruising, half throttle, DIY'ing the cold start and making little corrections here and there.

And then on most ECU's, get ready for corrections for 98, and just a lot of little tweaks here and there. Having someone have it overnight for just a flex tune is just near impossible to get fully right, so I'm not surprised people have e85 cold start issues or boggy spots on the fuel that they don't use 95% of the time - The time it takes to get it spot on is WAY more than what you spend going WOT on the dyno, but people aren't going to spend $3000 on labor to get a tune 100% spot on..... until you change... anything.

But Birds is right, E85 doesn't have the appeal it used to for street cars, mainly due to the price coming back up so the savings no longer counter the inconvenience and increased usage (reducing range)

Still appeals to me, as it has saved my new race engine a couple of times. (reg hose popped off and ran 16:1 at 32 psi at Sandown.) A petrol tune would have melted the pistons within a lap.

I don't know enough about how E85 runs cooler than 98, but the issue with mine is if I want more power (more boost) I need an intercooler as any more boost than I'm currently running starts to heat soak, even in summer + a few good runs you can feel the power drop off a bit. Would E85 eliminate heat soaking issues? or does the air need to be cooled before going in..? Would basically save buying an intercooler, and I could pump like another 5psi in with a new pulley + injectors only. (cos yeah, intercoolers are like ~5k for a decent one)

I guessing this isn't how it works though as I'm sure people on the ford forums would be all over it

Edited by UNR33L
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...