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Just abit of my finding for anyone interested during the cold this winter, car basically spent two months in the garage with being started once a week up to operating temp and when I went to drop the oil today before the next track day this is what I found.

Oil had completly absored the e85 wasnt even oily anymore ended up like water. This is motul 4100 power, it was fine for 3 months in summer but winter guess its not up to the task for being stationary.

post-50426-0-58438900-1341470337_thumb.jpg

looks like the blow bye that accumulates in my catch lol. does your pcv vent to atmosphere.. i think with an unsealed breather system water absorption is much worse,

Just abit of my finding for anyone interested during the cold this winter, car basically spent two months in the garage with being started once a week up to operating temp and when I went to drop the oil today before the next track day this is what I found.

Oil had completly absored the e85 wasnt even oily anymore ended up like water. This is motul 4100 power, it was fine for 3 months in summer but winter guess its not up to the task for being stationary.

post-50426-0-58438900-1341470337_thumb.jpg

50c bet says if you pour it on the ground and walk across it you will slip

just wondering here, is the heavier oil eg castrol edge more likely to prevent a spun bearing than a lighter oil of say 40w?

would the 40w become to thin with the moisture absorption and power/heat and lead to more failures with ethanol

  • 2 weeks later...

i forgot to post back again in this thread..

i'm on Castrol Edge 10w60 now - The oil has been updated and now meets the latest API SN / ILSAC GF-5, so you guys can go nuts with Edge. It's not that expensive either. For a track 26, i'd say it's the oil of choice as it's not that $$, and it's E85 friendly.

Motul 300V range has also been updated to be E85 friendly (officially now) but i think they want you to change it a lot more frequently if you're using it with E85

nisskid - the viscosity spread was a bit of a concern to me as well, but track 26's need a thicker oil, 50w at least and all of Racepace engines run Edge 10w60 and would probably see the most track time of any down here in Vic. They've been using it for years, so we definitely would have seen issues if there was a problem with it. I'll also be doing UOA testing on Edge in my car with E85, so we'll see how it holds up.

I think that with more regular oil changes if you're partaking in motorsport, you won't have to worry about the additive package as much. You'd probably find with oil testing you could get a lot more track days out of an oil change than you would normally think.

i forgot to post back again in this thread..

i'm on Castrol Edge 10w60 now - The oil has been updated and now meets the latest API SN / ILSAC GF-5, so you guys can go nuts with Edge. It's not that expensive either. For a track 26, i'd say it's the oil of choice as it's not that $$, and it's E85 friendly.

Motul 300V range has also been updated to be E85 friendly (officially now) but i think they want you to change it a lot more frequently if you're using it with E85

nisskid - the viscosity spread was a bit of a concern to me as well, but track 26's need a thicker oil, 50w at least and all of Racepace engines run Edge 10w60 and would probably see the most track time of any down here in Vic. They've been using it for years, so we definitely would have seen issues if there was a problem with it. I'll also be doing UOA testing on Edge in my car with E85, so we'll see how it holds up.

I think that with more regular oil changes if you're partaking in motorsport, you won't have to worry about the additive package as much. You'd probably find with oil testing you could get a lot more track days out of an oil change than you would normally think.

fair enough, yeh the w60 is understandable, i run the 20w60 ten tenths penrite "racing" which is designed for racing conditions, minimal additives and is 100% sheer free, penrite also have the "premium" range in the ten tenths, which is the brother range that is designed more for high performance street applications, it has similar viscosity's to edge, with high differences made with the introduction of additives like edge, good for street where the loads aren't too demanding, and cold start up is very important, however on the track, since there is no need for much start up protection, as it see's maybe a few cold starts a month, there is also no need for the additives which introduce complications at high load/temps.

i can't for the life of me find the 300V promo pic, i saw it on Athid's fb but can't find it! >:( can't find it on Motul OZ fb either, i'm sure it's there, might just have to look again...

it was like this..

70a5e3f7.jpg

Yeah i'm using Edge for the cold start as well as my car doesn't see the track much, so i think the Edge is a real good fit for a lot of us. E85 friendly, latest specs, not that expensive, 10w for cold start and thick enough for motorsport use.

i swear there was a 300V one... even had a brief chat to Trent about it the other day.... - maybe they got their promo pics mixed up and it wasn't meant to be for the 300V range? maybe that's why i can't find it...

the other thing to remember with additives, is that even if you're not getting high oil temp readings, doesn't mean you don't have hot spots, especially with turbo's as their bearings get stupid hot, and some additives used in some of the street oils around, do actually go off from the heat in these heat spots and create build up etc which can cause turbo failure etc. once again, for the street, probably not a problem, but for the track with turbo's getting to crazy temps, even if your oil temp gauge isn't reading real high, doesn't mean you're in the clear.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Amsoil-5L10w30-Premium-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-castrol-/120538814637?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c10ac58ad

Ive been running this but in the 10w40 for around 2000km in my car and it still looks and smells like new my car isnt a daily either so it sits around all week :yes:

See this is something I'm not sure about, if your oil is still clean after 2000km then is it really doing it's job?

An oils job is just not to lubricate/remove heat from components etc, but also to remove carbon build up and clean the engine thus making it dark in appearance...

If it's still clear then I suspect it isn't cleaning very well, either that or you have a very clean burning efficient engine..

Thoughts???

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