Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and whilst we are being logical, i honestly don't see the point in limiting to certain "DOT Approved" tyres. When you look at how wild front running WTA "cars" are they have virtually nothing to do with anything which is DOT approved or street legal whatsoever.

  • Replies 742
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Honestly - I don't see the point to Clubsprint in Time Attack. It's kind of completely against the point of the event to run stockish cars. And this is coming from someone who was supposed to be in Clubsprint. It just doesn't feel like it belongs at this event and given the fastest Clubsprint cars were all bloody open class cars anyways, I think if a field of cars ran around in the guise the class was supposed to be then everyone would just look at them and think "why are they here?".

I reckon they'd be better off having more Open cars and splitting 4WD and 2WD categories and giving more reward / focus to good 2WD entries.

So instead of 50 Open class cars and 25 Clubsprint they could have roughly 30 AWD Open and 30 2WD Open cars and scrap Club. Top 5 from each get Pro invites for the following year.

My 2c anyways.

That sounds like a good idea. It would move to stop every car entered being an Evo also.

Honestly - I don't see the point to Clubsprint in Time Attack. It's kind of completely against the point of the event to run stockish cars. And this is coming from someone who was supposed to be in Clubsprint. It just doesn't feel like it belongs at this event and given the fastest Clubsprint cars were all bloody open class cars anyways, I think if a field of cars ran around in the guise the class was supposed to be then everyone would just look at them and think "why are they here?".

I reckon they'd be better off having more Open cars and splitting 4WD and 2WD categories and giving more reward / focus to good 2WD entries.

So instead of 50 Open class cars and 25 Clubsprint they could have roughly 30 AWD Open and 30 2WD Open cars and scrap Club. Top 5 from each get Pro invites for the following year.

My 2c anyways.

Listen to this man, ,because for once, he's talking sense :)

That sounds like a good idea. It would move to stop every car entered being an Evo also.

Does anyone want to guess how many Emo's where entered out of the 87 entrants at WTAC?

30!!!

That's 34% of the field!!!

We're putting together a WTAC special edition DVD. We're taking pre-orders now and the more we get, the bigger and better the DVD can be!

Can order here: http://www.motive.bigcartel.com/product/2012-yokohama-world-time-attack-challenge-special-edition-dvd-pre-order

many sell dvd in japan - view pleasure nice

hiroaki travelling australia 2013 if japan time attack car yes also - today news much successful japan time attack car sold for america driver

today news 3 japan time attack racer team say yes build new r35 car to winning beat NEMO car - maybe yes started making already

Does anyone want to guess how many Emo's where entered out of the 87 entrants at WTAC?

30!!!

That's 34% of the field!!!

I find it hilarious that STI's, being an Evo competitor/rival, was no where to be seen! Cannot discredit an Evo because it is a very well engineered car/chassis and is a tuner's dream... whether it be dirt, snow and tarmac. An Evo even took out the drift comp lol

At the pro level the car doesn't really matter.

Evo's are popular because they are well, popular Lol I wouldn't say they represent a better overall package one way or another especially when you're basically talking about sports sedan levels of chassis development.

At the pro level the car doesn't really matter.

Evo's are popular because they are well, popular Lol I wouldn't say they represent a better overall package one way or another especially when you're basically talking about sports sedan levels of chassis development.

I've always noticed a big difference in the 2 cars. The Evo engine will produce bigger power easier than the Sti. It seems to be far easier to make a quick club lever car out of them over the Sti. Yet I would say the Sti is a far more popular street car then the Evo for them masses and the Evo is more for the people that know what cars are.

We're putting together a WTAC special edition DVD. We're taking pre-orders now and the more we get, the bigger and better the DVD can be!

Can order here: http://www.motive.bi...n-dvd-pre-order

Ordered :thumbsup:

STIs can oversteer... why would you want an EVO?

Give that man a raise!

I prefer STi's to Evo's - but the Evo is a better club car.

Finally got my story finished - as part of Mark Berry's crew this year with my ATTESA controllers etc. I have put it up on my website www.timeattacktalk.com

I will hopefully get the tech one written this week with data logging results etc. (still catching up on sleep :) )

Finally got my story finished - as part of Mark Berry's crew this year with my ATTESA controllers etc. I have put it up on my website www.timeattacktalk.com

I will hopefully get the tech one written this week with data logging results etc. (still catching up on sleep :) )

Interesting article Paulie, In the couple of brief chats I had with Mark he was pumped with the performance and tuneability of the new controllers.

And I could not agree more with the comments on the 32 gtr. That car sounds amazing.

I reckon they'd be better off having more Open cars and splitting 4WD and 2WD categories and giving more reward / focus to good 2WD entries.

I like the way you think!

At the pro level the car doesn't really matter.

Wish that was true and a skyline was up the front... Clearly the 4cyl (lighter) cars have a bit of an edge over the cars that men drive...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...