Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi team. Few questions.

I have already a few parts from an old car.

http://www.frsport.c...ts_p_15182.html

http://www.frsport.c...at_p_12814.html

and some lines.

Now i have the R33.

What is the part that i need to go on the engine block where the filter would normally sit?

On the sr I had this:

http://www.frsport.c...ors_p_2572.html

but cant seem to find a similar item for the RB.

Is there a similar item or a screw on type i can use?

guys. As per my above post.

Is this the part that will screw on to the block so i can then run the rest of my existing oil cooler/relocation set up?

http://www.rhdjapan....er-type-f-26621

As you can see it says there are different centre bolts and what not.

"center bolt, side union, 1/8 plug union x2, and a 60mm diameter O-ring. There are many sizes so please choose the one that best fits your vehicle and specify upon purchase"

Or do i need the 62mm one?

http://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-engine-oil-block-adapter-type-b-62mm-26817

What part number would i need for my R33 GTsT?

Thanks.

Edited by big fat paulie
  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

guys. As per my above post.

Is this the part that will screw on to the block so i can then run the rest of my existing oil cooler/relocation set up?

http://www.rhdjapan....er-type-f-26621

As you can see it says there are different centre bolts and what not.

"center bolt, side union, 1/8 plug union x2, and a 60mm diameter O-ring. There are many sizes so please choose the one that best fits your vehicle and specify upon purchase"

Or do i need the 62mm one?

http://www.rhdjapan....pe-b-62mm-26817

What part number would i need for my R33 GTsT?

Thanks.

Hey mate.

The stock oil filter thread for RB25 is 3/4X16 UNF, the seal diameter is 63mm, (off the measurements of a Z145A):

http://www.rycofilte...l+GQ/part/Z145A

The differing end parts in that link are the size of the holes for the lines to run off, ie. if you have -10AN lines, buy an adapter to accept -10AN lines, based on this you'd want part no.

12401131, only problem is that the seals 3mm smaller. I haven't had my oil filter off in a while so can't say if this would seal properly, so long as there's a machined flat surface 1.5 mm in from where the filter seal sits, that adapter would be fine.

Hope that helps.

EDIT: Yes, the 62mm item would be best as .5mm smaller seal each side shouldn't affect anything.

Edited by blk94r33
  • 2 weeks later...

Well if you want a good priced, quality oil cooler with a thermostat get the driftworks one then that leaves you with just a relocation plate and another line made which I think would be your cheapest option even say you got the driftworks oil cooler with thermostat which I think from memory is 2-300 then you can buy the jjr relocation kit you have linked for another 200 and you have all the plates and lines you need with one block plate leftover.

Has anyone had or know any one with experience with these Driftworks kits?

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-ultimate-oil-filter-relocation-and-cooler-kit-rb25det-37677.html

Im in the hunt for a kit aswell, these Driftworks kits seem to be pretty good quality but cant find any reviews...

Has anyone had or know any one with experience with these Driftworks kits?

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-ultimate-oil-filter-relocation-and-cooler-kit-rb25det-

37677.html

There not china spec if thats what you want to know so you wont have problems with leaky fittings or anything. But in saying that i got a jjr oil cooler kit and cant fault it and really keeps temps down.

Im in the hunt for a kit aswell, these Driftworks kits seem to be pretty good quality but cant find any reviews...

I found it was far cheaper to piece it together myself.

If you can be bothered. Figure out where you want the core, and work out the fittings you need.

That driftworks one looks good, but at 450pounds, its close to 1k delivered! Better off getting a car specific Jap branded one wouldnt you?

Edited by gotRICE?

I just looked at the hel kit with thermostatic sanga plate. buy from hel uk site 460 AUD including postage. whole kit for r33 gts/r.

I bought one, i currently have a chinese cooler that never let me down... but i want thermostat now because i scrapped the factory oil heater :thumbsup:

Note postage is 5 days tops... Hel australia want 700+++.........

Cant go wrong imho...

Where did you find this sounds perfect to me. I have tried looking around an the HEL websites only have motorbike related oil cooler kits?

I found it was far cheaper to piece it together myself.

If you can be bothered. Figure out where you want the core, and work out the fittings you need.

That driftworks one looks good, but at 450pounds, its close to 1k delivered! Better off getting a car specific Jap branded one wouldnt you?

It works out to be $756.88 AUS delivered which is still a fair bit less then the Jap ones i have seen and it is a specific kit for the r33, still shopping around atm though , if i can find a good quality jap cooler kit for around the same dough ill no doubt buy it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ended up getting a basic cooler kit and the Greddy thermostat and relocator.

Quick question, on the picture below, what is the gold-colored bung directly opposite the "from engine" fitting? Could an oil temp gauge be fitted in there with the right adapter? I know the 1/8 NPT on next to it is designed for a gauge.

Looking at the plate I have, he bung mentioned goes into the gallery for the oil filter center/return (if that makes sense) before it goes over the thermostat. Is it simply a machining hole etc?

http://i2.frsimg.com/images/detailed_images/Greddy_12401114_01b.jpg

Yeah the little grub screw on the very end is a 1/8 pressure or temp sensor point.

The big gold one is the same but you need to use this adapter to convert to 1/8.

http://www.frsport.com/Greddy-16400720-M18-Thread-1-8-NPT-Sensor-Gauge-Adapter_p_16528.html

Yeah the little grub screw on the very end is a 1/8 pressure or temp sensor point.

The big gold one is the same but you need to use this adapter to convert to 1/8.

http://www.frsport.c...er_p_16528.html

Cheers!

I knew about the 1/8 item, but there's no mention in any of the ads etc about the -10 fitting (just tried it with one of the others for the lines)

I'd imagine so long as the sensor doesn't interfere with oil flow it wouldn't affect it...

Where did you find this sounds perfect to me. I have tried looking around an the HEL websites only have motorbike related oil cooler kits?

Sorry man, didnt read this post again. Go to http://www.helcarkits.co.uk/

Pay with paypal. I retract about 5 days postage though lol im still waiting as customs knocked it back the first time

  • 1 month later...

I have all the gear - sandwich plate, relocating plate. thermostat, cooler - no one has mentioned a non-return valve. Do people use these? If your components are all above the level of the sandwich plate I presume all the oil (except that in the cooler depending on its orientation) will drain back to the sump when the motor is switched off. Is this not an issue?

If you are trying to save dollars then personally I would dump the idea of running a thermostat. Nowhere in Aus is cold enough to justify needing one. Especially since most of us will idle the car for 30seconds and drive the car lightly for the first few minutes which means low road speed and bugger all airflow through the cooler.

I have run without an oil cooler for 11 years on my R32 and no stress. I live on the East cost including areas like Richmond NSW and CBD Melbourne.

I'm the same. but I left the oil water cooler in. so if God forbid the oil got a couple of degrees colder than "optimum" the warmer warms it up.

Oil still works when us cool. And it will never get so cold as to be bad. Not possible.

If you are trying to save dollars then personally I would dump the idea of running a thermostat. Nowhere in Aus is cold enough to justify needing one. Especially since most of us will idle the car for 30seconds and drive the car lightly for the first few minutes which means low road speed and bugger all airflow through the cooler.

I have run without an oil cooler for 11 years on my R32 and no stress. I live on the East cost including areas like Richmond NSW and CBD Melbourne.

Im not trying to save dollars as I already have all the gear - my question was do people fit a non-return valve to their oil cooler and/or filter relocation kits?

And on the question of running a thermostat - the theory is that you use a grade of oil that is suitable for the 95% of the time that a mainly street car like mine is doing daily duties but the thermostat opens the cooler when hammering it on the track - very little to do with ambient temps.

  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...

And by this week, i meant a few months. Coolers been on the car and operational for 6+ months now and had no problems. From memory it worked out around the $650 mark delivered for the cooler kit with lines, core and take-off, and the Greddy relocation plate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...