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300Kw Unopened 25 Club...

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
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zebra
zebra

Yep We're jealous of full boost at 6000rpm with a gtx35

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

Back again, 372kW @ 1.75bar (1.8bar spiked a little)... motor has not popped and even went to a track day on the 30th of May. Motor did push some coolant, I believe the OEM head gasket isn't too happy

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Might as well give it 30+ You're building a 3.0 anyway

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R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

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Yep, me too. Only motul fluid i use is their RBF600 Brake fluid. Have had no issues with that whatsoever.

Their oils on the other hand, cost me a couple of lifters in my 25, and also caused issues in my S14. Changed oils (And replaced lifters) and all was fine.

My tuner used to stock motul, and had quite a few problems, and now he himself stocks and uses nulon. He also Carries ULX oils.

R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

Posted
Posted

Was Motul Turbolight 4100 10w40 in my sr, and motel 300v chrono 10w40 in my 33/rb25.

Switched to penrite in the s14 and put in new lifters and changed to nulon in the 33 and all was good.

I thought there may have been an underlying issue with the lifters in the 33, but the problem started from that oil change. Tuner said he had had the same issues with a couple of 33's he tunes/looks after.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

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In my case it was turbolight but I don't think it's fair to say that was what spun the bearing. It was a 200,000+ km motor running 300rwkw and was a track car of some sort in JP.

However the as soon as I changed from shockproof to motul for the gearbox it became a bag of dicks overnight and lost 5th. All gears started to crunch a little and generally felt less tight.

The diff always worked but a few runs on the skidpan was enough to kill the diff fluid. It would make a lit of weird ticking noises after a few runs and would never return until a fluid change

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

Posted
Posted

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Never had issues with shockproof, but have not used it in freshly rebuilt boxes. When I put my OS gears in I won't be using it.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Isn't it funny how views over 10 years change.
kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
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Ugggh I run Motul Htech 100 in my 33... and I've got lifter tick by the sounds of it.I used to run Penrite racing 10 10ths (10w/40) then JustJap recommended the Motul..

Looks like I'll be changing oils sooner rather than later.

R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

Posted
Posted

Ugggh I run Motul Htech 100 in my 33... and I've got lifter tick by the sounds of it.I used to run Penrite racing 10 10ths (10w/40) then JustJap recommended the Motul..

Looks like I'll be changing oils sooner rather than later.

The precise symptoms I was talking about. My 33, and a couple of other customers had the same issues after using motul. Not sure why.

breaker1845 Community Regular

breaker1845

Posted
Posted

Penrite Racing 10, 10w40, just changed mine at roughly 7000km while car is off the road and has been going well in the 33 gtr, no problems experienced. Other people use HPR 10w50 with the added zinc and rate it well also for an engine that has done a fair amount of km's.

Refreshed a gearbox from a 33 gtr recently also. Cost of new bearings, synchros is fairly cheap from Japan, just take a few weeks to get all the parts. Longer if have to order more parts during the refresh. If you pay someone to do it and provide all the parts it's not that much in labour. Compared to having a crunching gearbox that is crap to drive I know what I'd take.

Once refreshed of course the gearbox feels brand new basically, worth the money. If you are not hard on boxes, the refresh will likely last for a long time.

Never used Redline oils in the gearbox and probably never will.

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