Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well tyres wernt designed to be stretched on to wheels larger then the suited size.. there for would be more prone to cause an accident wouldnt it? The added stress on the side walls cant be good for it? Plus why would you want to runn less tyre on the road..theyr the only thing keeping you on the road..so run the right size? My theory behind it anyway

Well tyres wernt designed to be stretched on to wheels larger then the suited size.. there for would be more prone to cause an accident wouldnt it? The added stress on the side walls cant be good for it? Plus why would you want to runn less tyre on the road..theyr the only thing keeping you on the road..so run the right size? My theory behind it anyway

Aren't you running 235 on a 18x9.5?

Looking at going 18x9.5 +24 all round now with 235/40/18

i know it will be a little bit of strech but from what arctic choc has and a few other people in skyline owners forum running 18x9.5 +30 i should sit nicely in the middle of it all correct?

Cheers Arctic! Less stretch than I thought. Looks good though.

Anyways problem is solved, FINALLY decided on wheels and bought them. Hoping they arrive by the end of the week.

I got work x jdm concept gt5 in 18x9 +30, which is the gar wheel size so pretty sure I shouldn't have to do much. They kind of look like drift teks but they're a proper work wheel which is sick. I'll post some photos when they're on

Cheers man, I'd been looking fro bronze wheels for ages but nothing seemed to be the right offset or size. so stoked on these.

yeah, when I bought the car, i cleaned them up but just havent satyed on top of it. Ive got some turtle wax 2 in 1 headlight cleaner I think. might give it a crack.

unfortunately when we did the wheels they guys notice a big bump in my sump, which might explain why my oil gets a bit warmer than usual. so next on the list is new sump and the cusco drag rod to get rid of that nasty Hicas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...