"steam Pipe" Single Turbo Manifolds On Fleabay....anyone Know Anythging About This Supplier And Their Products?

[luvpsi]

yeah i think if the wastegate steampipe went to the side from where all the steampipes meet and is shorter it would have better boost controll

[Andy B]

Kam...... Did u get the pics I sent you via email matey ??

[Roy]

Also, are you able to change the way the wastegate port is mounted? The current design looks like it would cause huge boost control issues, the exhaust has to flow backwards from its direction of travel...

Why does it look like it would have boost control issues?

Hanaldo, good point mate . Can someone post up pics of the preferred wastegate layout for Kam too see??

Here is one of their pics and a pic of my Greddy/Trust TD06 manifold that hlds boost like a champion, better then the 6boost that replaced it.

So cant see the issue the rest of you all are

vs

And I dont mean to rag on 6boost, so far mine has been a durable thing and overall happy with it. But has anyone taken their turbo off after some running? Have they noted that the collector splits open in the ID due to temperature expansion. The welds are not full pen and the join seems to propogate open. So i question will the split actually propogate out to crack the weld? If others look the same then I wont worry as you very rarely hear of problems with 6boost manifolds.

The 6boost manifolds seen a little sensitive to the distance from the wastegate is mounted from the collector. Coomon knowledge these days on where to mount the wastegate. So not an issue. But plenty of people had loads of problems at first trying to get the 6boost manifolds to not get massive boost creep, even with various springs. My 6boost / Turbosmart setup has an 8psi spring in it but min boost is around 15psi. Fine with me as I want to run 20psi. My Greddy gate had an 8psi spring and guess what, with no boost control the turbo ran 8psi.

Now people have it worked out. You can guesstimate what spring, gate lcoation will give you the coost control you need. The longer length wastegate pipes are typical of the Japanese manifolds, and the angle seems very similar so expect (thats no guarantee, but an educated guess) it to be fine with regards to holding boost.

[ARTZ]

Artz, I can't see how you fabricate your own exhaust housing? If you cut a hole in it and then welded a pipe into it to take a wastegate you would then need the housing re-machining again to correct any distortion from the welding?????

Housing is cast, its made to take alot of heat and if it was going to warp, it would warp on your engine yeah..

I think it would take alot more than a welder to warp it..as long as you bolt it down to a flat surface when you weld it, it should be fine..

many people swear by it..

[JonnoHR31]

to properly weld cast without distorting the housing you need to preheat it in an oven first and then let it cool slowly in an oven afterwards

[Hybrid1310]

Thank's for your info guys,

I will post a couple more pics up today i had one shipped to aus last night and i wanted to show you how it looks and how we packet it,

From what we have seen the WG port angle / direction isn't bad but we will give the option of running larger Port Ie: 50 mm, 44mm or No WG port so you can run it off the rear of the housing of your turbo to minimize turbo creep,

Sorry i have been flat out and not on the computer constantly but will keep you guys posted.

Any other requests?

Kam

[Andy B]

Kam, for additional strength, can you add bracing from the underneath of the turbo flange to the header flange as per the pic I emailed you??

[Roy]

All that will do is fix the arc that that the turbo flange and dump pipe will "swing" when it all glows red and there is a mechanical load on it.

The best way to do a bracket is to use the tapped threads off the side of the head which are for engine removal. Throw a support to the underside of the turbo flange....support the dump/front pipe properly off the gearbox mount and even a thin walled stainless manifold will last for years.

[HYBR3D]

Well I think this is ideal:

I have the feeling its coming from the collector from the back side of the manifold. All his RB manifolds have WG ports coming out the side as this example below.

Ill even ask mike sinco how this is set up eh?

Heres his web site if you want to look at some examples

http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/gallery

[Mick_o]

Ive been thinking bout having a crack at knocking up some headers myself for a while now and hopefully pretty soon i will get the chance to! Im a qualified pressure pipe welder (i actually weld steam pipes & install boilers for a living lol) not looking to step on anybodies toes here but i wanna throw this idea out there that if anybody in Sydney would like to help me make a jig or supply me a manifold so i can make 1 and get some design ideas off u guys of what will work and what wont i can assure you i can make something that will have xray quality welds and be durable as hell! I have the fabrication & welding skills just need a design! This thread has had alot of hits so figured this might be the best way to get my idea out and get something happening so let me know your thoughts guys

[ARTZ]

to properly weld cast without distorting the housing you need to preheat it in an oven first and then let it cool slowly in an oven afterwards

ahh yes that too..pretty sure mine was heated with a torch then left to cool..Im not exactly sure..

[KiwiRS4T]

I have the feeling its coming from the collector from the back side of the manifold. All his RB manifolds have WG ports coming out the side as this example below.

Ill even ask mike sinco how this is set up eh?

Heres his web site if you want to look at some examples

http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/gallery

No mine is definitely welded to the turbo housing as per my specs - I guess a lot of people don't want that because it makes it harder to change the turbos or housings.

[T04GTR]

for the money who cares, you couldnt build one youself for that much. id use it.of anything id change the wastegate pipe out for a 2" one.

[HYBR3D]

No mine is definitely welded to the turbo housing as per my specs - I guess a lot of people don't want that because it makes it harder to change the turbos or housings.

Yea that's what mike said, back in 2009? He also said he's developed a new setup over the years since (assuming its the w.g port and collector chamber) I think your right would be good for the perminant setup, but not so good if you wanted to change ex housing and setup. Either way I think mike sets the manifold benchmark.

[Hanaldo]

Why does it look like it would have boost control issues?

I looked back through the pictures and it looks like some of the wastegate ports are ok. My comment was in relation to this pic directly:

The angle the port is mounted looks like it is ~45 degrees to the direction of flow from the runners, so the exhaust has to change direction. The Greddy manifold you posted has the port at 90 degrees to the direction of flow, which will work (that's how mine is mounted and it's fine) but the best angle would be symmetric to flow, like this:

[luvpsi]

to do that you would almost have to have the wastegate port directly up

[r33_racer]

to do that you would almost have to have the wastegate port directly up

Precisely, which is hard to achieve given the limited room in the engine bay. Hence why welding your wastegate intlet off the turbo housing is alot better for boost control as you can get it almost perfectly inline with exhaust flow.

The collectors in those pics look all over the place too. The entry for 1 & 6 look like they are facing at 45 degree angles to the direction of flow that the other 4 cylinders are facing...So its not a typical merge collector where all cylinders have the same entry angle. From that point of view those manifolds might have ok boost control due to the entra turbulence inside the collector, but that would typically mean a less responsive less efficient setup.

[Roy]

... but that would typically mean a less responsive less efficient setup.

Yeh its strange. You would think it would yield a better result. As I pointed out they are not overly different to my old Trust manifold in teh collector at different angles too...yet the Trust manifold was more responsive then the 6boost...so the merge collector is perhaps nice but a bit of a wank on a 6 cylinder...I can only put the better performance of the Trust manifold down to its 6-2-1 type arrangment vs the 6boost 6-1 merge collector. Perhaps the 6-1 works better when if its a twin scroll manifold so really only 6-2. I dunno....but after reading thread after thread of 6boost having the most effecient design and collector getting around and most responsive yadda, yadda I was a bit gutted to have spent money on the manifold, new gate, piping to go backwards in response. Marginal, but backwards all the same. They are durable and I expect it will give me years of trouble free running so that is always a bonus.

So perhaps air is just lazy and these things dont really translate as you would hope. I agree that if you can get the design 100% right then you should aim for it....even if it doesnt correlate to a tangible performance increase....its nice to have things right. But that said when the manifold is 1/3 of the price you can be forgiven for forgetting niceties and worrying about performance and budget.

For the moment its all conjecture until someone bolts one on and gives it a nudge.

[r33_racer]

Thats pretty much it.....only thing I can say is every engine is different and sometimes for reasons we dont all fully understand. Some things work really well on one engine but not on another thats near identical. We went from a stainless job to a 6boost and we picked up a buttload of response and power...others have done the same change but not seen the same improvements...

The joys of modifying!

[ARTZ]

@ Roy..could it be your problem is velocity..same as when you put 3 inch cooler piping when u dont really need it

You have too much flow for the power you are trying to make and it has slowed the air down...especially if you have a manifold that is designed for 2.5 and 3.0L enignes, or is the rb20 item a different design?

Air hits turbine but now has a lack of backpressure, so its made it lazier..on the plus side it should run cooler

Simple answer is, get a bigger engine and/or turbo...lol