Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I need some advice. I am going to start doing some track days for fun, maybe the NSW Super Sprint series next year.
I have a set of 16" wheels which would be suitable to use, but I'd be restricted to a 225/45 or 225/50 r16 tyre size.

Is this a disadvantage at all compared to using a 235/45r17 tyre? This would mean I would need to buy new wheels as well as tyres.

The 16" tyres are generally a little bit cheaper too, in Kumho V70A or similar as discussed in this thread.

Is it OK to stick with my 16" wheels and buy some tyres, or am I better moving to a 17" and bigger tyre from the start?
Thanks very much.

Edit:
Car is S14 Silvia with stock engine/power. At best I will have coilovers, that's about all.

the most important thing about a tyre is....can you afford to buy it :)

wider tyres in the same brand and compound would almost always be faster. but the difference may not be worth the money.

even weirder is that same width tyres for larger rims are more expensive. (eg 235/16 vs 235/18) despite there being less rubber. :wacko:

As "the checkout" would say......SCAM!

  • 4 weeks later...

It may well be a scam, but consider this. The 18 inch option will out sell the 16 inch option say for arguments sake 20:1. The cost of the 16 inch is higher therefore becaus the factory has to stop production of the 18, retool the machines to cast 16s in a small amount. Therefore the costs are higher. Economy of scale.

The exact same thing happens with brake pads. Do a set of racing pads have triple the cost of materials in it than a set of boggo stocks? Nup, but the producer has to stop production of the pads that sell 98% of the market, and start making "Motorsport" pads.

  • 1 month later...

The best bang for buck atm imo is the Hankook Z214 2 groove tyres. Not a true semi though, so it depends if what you do allows them to be used.

They're cheap (similar to the FZ201s were in 17" sizes) and extremely quick.

Otherwise, in true semi slicks, there is probably no standout bang for buck options. The cheap options like Toyo and Nitto are lower performance than the FZ201s were, and the fast rubber like Hankook, Yokohama and Dunlop are more expensive. The Hankook Z221 is probably the fastest true semi available now, and its cheaper than the Yokohama and Dunlop rivals so it's probably the best value.

I didn't mention Kumho because they seem a bit hit and miss - on cars they suit they are really fast, on cars they don't suit they're just average, and on some cars they tend to delaminate or blowout - like my 180SX using the same geometry that the R888 and FZ201 didn't have any dramas with.

So far I only be doing track days and the odd super sprint. Would I get knocked back with the Z214's at a supersprint?

And where are you buying your tyres from?

And would these be ok for competition?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+Cup&partnum=635YR8SPORTCUP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Track days are unlikely to have any problem with them.

Supersprints - depends. NSW supersprints have their own rules which are very different to the rest of the country.

the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tyres... I don't know anyone who buys them for motorsport here. Can't say what they'd actually be like. I think they're OE on some Porsches though. Maybe talk to someone in a Porsche Club at sprints?

I liked them. Were on my mx5 and tyres before we're r888s

Best I could do with r888s was a 1.13.7 at wakie then with same mods a 1.12.3 on the v70s

Lasted over a year (bought them around may 2012) and did 9 race meets

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got a set of 245/40 R18 Nitto NT01's tracked once on my Soarer. And by once I mean one 5 lap session before the car had a problem and I had to park it. I'll sell them for $950 the set of 4 + freight. Can get pics tonight. Happy to drop them at an e-go depot.

I'm building a Datsun track car now and have no real need or desire to track the Soarer anymore, and 18s aren't going to be any good for my 120Y!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...