Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Knew the R888 were too 'soft' for our heavy cars :P.

I said something like that earlier in this thread and IIRC an mx5 guy said they were shit on his car too... So i guess they're just shit. Cheap tho.

  • 3 weeks later...

I am looking for a tyre that is good value for money and offers the best performance for the $$$ to have a go at a few track days.

The car it an R34 GTT. 320RWKW. coilovers, 350mm brakes etc.

I would be putting the tyres on a seperate set of rims to be put on to drive to the track, on the track and back home. Would be from Canberra to wakefield which is roughly 100km each way. I have a separate set of rims and tyres for daily driving.

Rims are:

Desmond Regamaster

17x9 + 38
17x8 +35

I was thinking of getting Nitto NT01

255 40 17

225 45 17

Should be able to get a full set of tyres for around $900. What do people think? Are there any better value options out there?

You talking about the soft compound Z221 - the C7?

How are they relative to the A050's?

There are part numbers on the Hankook website for the tyres which may line up.

So in 255/40/17 hard is 1010343, medium is 1012650 and soft is 1011508 apparently.

http://www.hankooktyre.com.au/Product/MotorsportTyreSemiSlick.aspx?pageNum=1&subNum=5&ChildNum=3#Z221

Just curious because I would like something a little harder than an A050 and better than an RE55. Almost everything else appears to be sht.

I am looking for a tyre that is good value for money and offers the best performance for the $$$ to have a go at a few track days.

The car it an R34 GTT. 320RWKW. coilovers, 350mm brakes etc.

I would be putting the tyres on a seperate set of rims to be put on to drive to the track, on the track and back home. Would be from Canberra to wakefield which is roughly 100km each way. I have a separate set of rims and tyres for daily driving.

Rims are:

Desmond Regamaster

17x9 + 38

17x8 +35

I was thinking of getting Nitto NT01

255 40 17

225 45 17

Should be able to get a full set of tyres for around $900. What do people think? Are there any better value options out there?

NT01's will be fine to drive to and from the track on but I'd probably run a wider front tyre if I were you. See if you can get the 255 to fit on the front, if not a 245.

  • 2 weeks later...

I learnt the hard way. Bought a pair of bargain secondhand 275 Z214 C51 "Mediums" for the back of the Soarer, only to find they were harder and less grippy than the 245 NT01s I had on there. I had NFI about the Hankook compounds at the time, but "medium" sounded like what I wanted for sprints. Wrong! They'r enot that old and had almost new tread, so at first I thought they might just have been cooked or heat cycled too many times. But a mate who runs C70s told me about the compounds... At least it was only $100 bucks wasted.

I bumped into the Hankook rep up here at a hillclimb and he explained the C70 "softs" as really being medium compound and the C50 "medium" is really a hard compound. C90 for Hillclimbs. C70 for Sprints. C50 if you want to do a 3hr race!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...