Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I needed a pair of wheels when I got my 265s all round too. I went with Koya CR Tek - cheap, strong, and proven on the race track.

18x9.5 was widest they have, but that's perfect for 265s anyway. Offsets are cut to your specs. 

  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/19/2016 at 7:12 PM, Duncan said:

lol you should probably say, or update your sig then :P (edit: make that profile, I can sort of see it in your sig now:blush:)

you are probably limited to 8" on the front of a 33 gtst unless you are putting larger guards on, and that means no larger than 245s.

as for brand I'd just ring the local motorsport suppliers and see what they have....I haven't bought slicks for years but I think they are worth considering for track only

I run a 9" R33 GTR wheel (+30) with 255 z221 on the front with no issues.  Guards have been rolled though.

On 7/29/2016 at 9:56 AM, Adz2332 said:

more or less what i was thinking....

Might grab a set of the nankangs 265 all round. that way can rotate the tyres.

have to find a set of 18 9.5 +12 or 10.5s rims cheapish

I'm not sure if a 10.5" +12 wheel with 265s will fit on the front of an R33 GTST with some serious guard work?

On ‎8‎/‎16‎/‎2016 at 6:15 PM, dan.1337 said:

I run a 9" R33 GTR wheel (+30) with 255 z221 on the front with no issues.  Guards have been rolled though.

I'm not sure if a 10.5" +12 wheel with 265s will fit on the front of an R33 GTST with some serious guard work?

I've been running 18x10 +12 with 265s up front.  Nothing too serious on guard work, an hour with tin snips & hammer, and screwed on some flares.  Works well, beats trying to roll a lip etc.

  • 4 weeks later...

Used the Nankangs at Mt Cotton hillclimb on the weekend. They were great - work very well from cold. I've never felt a semi work so well in Turn 1 out there.  The sharpest steering response I've ever felt into T1, with not even a hint of understeer and probably the best traction I've ever had on the way out of T1. Actually, they've got excellent traction off all the slow turns out there. I'm very impressed with them. Had to be careful not to overheat them with the burnout - just a very small 2 second burnout to warm the rears was about all they wanted. Any more and they went a bit squishy.
Haven't seen the times from the last couple of runs yet, but runs 3 and 4 were 47.9s which is 4 tenths faster than the Nittos were there (without tyre softener). That's heaps of time at a ~48sec hillclimb, and I reckon I went faster on the last run. Just waiting on the results to be emailled out.

So Harry - at the price point where AR1 (and NT01) live - you're not seeing anything about the Nankangs that's a negative from a clubman motorsport perspective?  Bearing in mind that's about the level of most forum conversations and budget constraints for "average" enthusiasts.

Seems the AR1 on a heavier car, dry track, can do the job for hillclimb (nearly dead cold rubber) and sprints (~10 - 15 minute session so generating a bit of heat) pretty well, faster than the Nitto with more grip generally.  It will be interesting to see how they go for durability.

How do they feel for carcass rigidity, and progressive breakaway when they do slide?

I'm very interested to see what you think overall.  Accepting they're not likely to perform at A050 or Z221 level, these things have to be on a few people's lists when not chasing sheep stations.

They're in a totally different league to NT01s. No doubt whatsoever. There's no downsides to them. The guy who fitted them has been selling NT01s for years, said the Nankangs definitely have stronger sidewalls. They're good on the limit, and when you overstep it. No quirks or foibles at all - they just perform like a good semi slick should. They might not be quite up there with A050/Z221 mediums, but would be FAR closer in performance to those than the Nittos are to AR1s. I'm hoping they release a 295 or the back of the Soarer... Would be awesome for the hillclimb if they release a soft compound!

I've done 3 trackdays and one hillclimb so far, so it's early days to be talking about durability, but no concerns so far in wear or heat cycling.

 

Edited by hrd-hr30
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/09/2016 at 9:31 AM, hrd-hr30 said:

They're in a totally different league to NT01s. No doubt whatsoever. There's no downsides to them. The guy who fitted them has been selling NT01s for years, said the Nankangs definitely have stronger sidewalls. They're good on the limit, and when you overstep it. No quirks or foibles at all - they just perform like a good semi slick should. They might not be quite up there with A050/Z221 mediums, but would be FAR closer in performance to those than the Nittos are to AR1s. I'm hoping they release a 295 or the back of the Soarer... Would be awesome for the hillclimb if they release a soft compound!

I've done 3 trackdays and one hillclimb so far, so it's early days to be talking about durability, but no concerns so far in wear or heat cycling.

 

 

which nankangs are you referring to??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...