Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thermo's rob power from the engine too, they are less efficient than the engine fan and suck a heap of current from the alternator whenever they are on.

If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off, that's my plan. One small thermo and one large one set at different temps may help too.

If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off,
That's how the are supposed to be set up. But very few actually set them up this way. Many set them so they are permanently on, which totally defeats the purpose - all that does is shift the load on the engine from the fan to the alternator.

The problem I had when I tried it (32 GTS4), was getting air to flow through the radiator while the car was moving. I could only JUST get airflow, and the slightest uphill in the road coud induce the fan to activate.

For the few kW gained by removing the load of the fan, it is not worth cooking an engine.

Well those cars were designed by the manufacturer to use thermos as standard.

A working clutch fan such as the nissans will only draw engine power when at idle or just above, as they are supposed to taper off/decouple as RPM increases.

As they wear out they tend to stay engaged longer and start to sound like an EA falcooon.

When they wear out they stop working i.e you can hold the fan while revving the engine when hot, the viscosity in the gel changes and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

Edited by 51NNA

and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

So all the WRX's and many other cars that come from the factory with a thermo fan are going too cook there engines? lol...

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

Yes, i didnt mean the battery will stop the current draw, but with the correct battery the load would be reduced on the alt, unless the thermos constantly on.

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

...were did i say "put a clutch fan on a wrx" All im saying is MOST cars come with thermos with no cooling issues and yes ive driven a falcon and worked on 100s, whats that got to do with anything?

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

Garage 7 sell both the fans and the hubs at a much more reasonable price then that

www.garage7.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that's a fair assumption. I'm presuming they call them solid lifters as they have no moving parts like hydro lifters. 
    • I believe you're confusing WMI with water injection. Looking at that graph, the 93aki+WMI car is making more power than C16 race gas. Boost juice, which is what I also run, is Snow Performances 50/50 premix. 
    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
×
×
  • Create New...