Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've tried searching but couldnt really find much.

Currently making 347 rwkw

hks2540's i think - full boost of 22psi at around 5500 ish

powerfc

tomei adj gears

bosch 044

ported manifolds

hks dumps

hi-flow cat

z32 afms

sard 800's

Running standard internals

NOW to my question... How can i increase turbo response? Cams? What cams would be suitable Im hoping something along the lines of drop in i.e. keeping everything else stock.

I want a reliable driver also - and im 100% sure this car wont see a track day or drag strip plus i have shift light set at 7000rpms.

Lag is starting to annoy me and i really don't know what to do.. i cant afford to take out the turbos and buy and sell -9's or -5's.. What can i do to make the lag a little bit better/bearable?

Please don't flame, I'm asking a genuine question.

Thanks all

Edited by kinggtr

If you don't want to change your turbos then its just a matter of tuning to get as near as possible to the result you want. I would guess cams should stay stock but timing would need adjusting via the two adjustable gears (that's what they're for!)

Seems like you are in the same town as Status tuning so give them a ring and make an apointment - be prepared to spend around $1000 more or less for a decent tune.

I know you said you don't really want to change turbo's, but those 2540's are probably the worst lowmount setup on a GTR for any type of "'response". Cam timing and tunes are only gonna help so much.

A set of type R Poncams if you must buy a set of bumpsticks would be the go.

And make sure your exhaust doesn't have "step downs" that'll cause unnecessary back pressure

Turbos that size and an engine only revving to 7000rpm would be a dog to drive...

As already mentioned, well aware that you said a turbo change is not what you are wanting to look at doing - but at the end of the day the cams aren't going to be a budget mod and are really going to make so little difference you're going to wonder why you bothered imho, and will eventually have to do something drastic to polish the turd that is GT2540s (if you don't just replace them).

Honestly the most logical thing to do is change the turbos, as funnily enough anything else you do is not going to change that they are GT2540s and as such are going to behave like them.

Can I ask if you can't afford to spend the time removing the turbos or is it just a matter of money?

If it's just money i'm sure you can make a decent bit of cash back selling those and buying second hand -9s/-5s.

But yeah otherwise, who tuned the car and got a dyno graph of it currently? And have the adjustable cams been used to lower the power range?

Edit: What front pipes and cat back are you running?

Edited by Serpandrew

I'm not an RB26/GTR person but I'd look at it like this .

HKS effectively replaced the old "GT2540s" , which in todays speak are actually GT2876Rs , with turbos called GTRSs which are a GT2871R in 52 compressor trim .

People here say that it takes a specific combination of parts and good tuning to make GTRSs work on an RB26 and they actually use smaller but more modern compressor wheels than the old 2540s .

You could try all kinds of ways to work around those turbos but at the end of the day they are not a well though out turbocharger and you can do better .

Simply too big a compressor for the turbines to drive and thats what makes them lazy .

I think the designed for the purpose GT2859R (GTSS) are the go because they make boost and torque in the rev/speed range you can use in a street GTR .

Pretty sure you'd still make 300+ Kw but you'd drag the power range down possibly 1000 revs if not more .

So your call , either GTSS or inaptly called GT2530s I think .

A .

-9's are SS' s

-5' are close enough to 2530's.

Spend the money and rip those turbos off mate. You're about to drop a bomb of money and really, you're not gonna get the result you're after.

what are your cam gears dialled in as?

You could "possibly" get them to spool a tad earlier if you advanced the intake cams and retarded the exhaust cams a tad. A few people have gotten their GTS-ts to spool a tad earlier by retarding the exhaust cam gear only.

Hey guys

Firstly thanks for all your input on this matter - ill upload the tune soon.

Not to sure what's been improved from the cam gears other then an obvious lift on all parts on the graph.

I swapped out the gfb manual Bc and swapped it over for an eboost street and don't a few adjust I'm getting a rushing boost feeling from 3000 rpms and full boost at 4800 5000

Could they be 2530s? I also noticed an intercooler pipe leaking which I sorted out.

Lastly I spoke to my tuner and he explained how opts for a smooth graph and smooth power delivery. Maybe im just used to the standard response of the ceramic turbs?

Peak torque is 3/4 up the powerband, no wonder your not happy..

Im really with the others and will say spend wisely and just get real turbos. To match the peak you will need -5s. Check serial numbers before you do anything, obviously..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...