Jump to content
SAU Community

Bnr32 - Once In A Lifetime Build All Gt-R Owners Must See

$$slowmedown
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

You need to differentiate between weight distribution and centre of gravity. The heavy wing helps with weight ditribution but not with the c of g.

Anyway out of interest are N1 rear windows available at all?

Yes, N1 windows are available.

Do you want one? or are you just referring to another method of removing the rear wiper?

Because the costs of the N1 rear window by far exceeds the costs just getting a rubber grommet (although N1 rear windows do look nicer :P )

Edited by Ants
  • Replies 647
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

Lakeside Classic - July 26, 2015 None of this build would of been possible without the man sitting next to me. Endless hours spent together talking, planning, working. Forever thankful Dad.

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

Cheers for the input guys, appreciated as always. Have been flat out getting this thing finished off over the last few weeks. Will get an update up asap!! For now I found these

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

I'll just leave this here...

Posted Images

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Yes, N1 windows are available.

Do you want one? or are you just referring to another method of removing the rear wiper?

Because the costs of the N1 rear window by far exceeds the costs just getting a rubber grommet (although N1 rear windows do look nicer :P )

Nah I was just curious. Obviously a rubber grommet is cheaper than a window, not to mention the drug money Nissan want for the rubber sealing strip that goes around it. Probably why I have seen a few GTR's that have suffered from a broken rear window where the owner has full glass coverage on their insurance. Coincidentally. Allegedly. Apparently. From what I heard. On the internet. From overseas. Hmmm.

What I would like is a new windscreen with an antenna in it, rather than the local ones which I understand dont have them.

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Activities from the weekend, got the front subframe stripped down ready to start paint prep

IMG_6562.JPG

IMG_6564.JPG

IMG_6570.JPG

IMG_6578.JPG

IMG_6590.JPG

IMG_6584.JPG

IMG_6587.JPG

Plan is to get everything cleaned down, painted, replace hub seals (bearings feel good), some new ball joints to replace

Also have to get the rotor dust shields off, can anyone offer any advice on doing this easily/best way?

IMG_6582.JPG

  • Like 1
copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

This is like watching a show of overhaulin, except instead of some random muscle car it's a GTR!!

How the hell did you learn to pull a skyline down into this many components and put it all back together? Did you work at the Nissan factory or something?

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I cut my dust shields off yesterday with a 4" grinder and just left little tabs on there.

Cheers mate, appreciate the input

This is like watching a show of overhaulin, except instead of some random muscle car it's a GTR!!

How the hell did you learn to pull a skyline down into this many components and put it all back together? Did you work at the Nissan factory or something?

Haha cheers Nick, plenty more to come mate, still going with the shit stuff!

Just learning as I go hey, all about having the right people around you, right tools, a big shed and an old man who is always there to help

Yet to see how it goes putting it back together....that's the hard bit (but the best)

Yep definitely cutting wheel / grinder as Michael said

Thanks for confirming Paul

Took some photos of the bay when the light was a lot better, pretty happy with how it came up

IMG_6484.JPG

IMG_6485.JPG

IMG_6489.JPG

IMG_6490.JPG

IMG_6494.JPG

IMG_6495.JPG

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Looked a bit worst for wear that one!

Might be worth cleaning up and putting aside in case you ever change your mind.

What do you have in mind to plug the small squirter hole ?

(an automotive plug from supercheap with silastic might do a good job)

Edit: JJR have the rear C panels for $160?

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

Rear wiper removal fun...

IMG_6618.JPG

Easy part

IMG_6619.JPG

Nut rusted and fused to thread

IMG_6620.JPG

IMG_6634.JPG

Hacksaw out

IMG_6635.JPG

Success, got it with no breakage :banana:

IMG_6637.JPG

IMG_6643.JPG

More junk for the bin

IMG_6641.JPG

Awesome Robbie.

Looks like that nut was really FUBAR. I wonder if mine is going to be like that, if it is at least I will know what to do then :yes:

Kind of perfect timing as I received this in mail.

IMG_1748_zpsf28fb565.jpg

Will fit perfectly for the rear wiper hole (being 30mm).

For the nozzle hole I have found this of which I have just purchased from

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blanking-Grommet-10mm-Panel-Hole-Pkt-6-/321090727402?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac27fadea

We are all sorted :thumbsup:

Edited by Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...