Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took some pics the other day with the phone after a polish, came up pretty well.

Washed, clay bar using a Bowden's Kit, and poslished with a Mother's Wax Attack kit I bought last year, using Mother's Cleaner Wax.

Does any other sealant need to go on over the cleaner wax? It says that its the only step required, and it has left a nice layer of wax on it.

Looking to try some differant waxes in the near future, as this was done in a bit of a rush after work one night

post-493-0-93561200-1408589721_thumb.jpg

post-493-0-06459600-1408589769_thumb.jpg

post-493-0-24266900-1408589804_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Did this on Saturday, the pics are MMS'd so a bit crappy in res. The paint was finished with Naviwax, after clay and one pass of polish. Didn't go crazy due to lack of time and just finished as we ran out of daylight

7166.jpg

7165.jpg

7169.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

got bored so i got the cleaning gear out again.

she reaalyy needed it but more so cos its starting to rain more and i want to keep it off the paint as much as possible so no heavy cutting but lots of wax.

did a full wash

claybar

basic hand polish

basic hand wax

DSC_0196_zpsvwbaairp.jpg

DSC_0203_zpsfjd5whmw.jpg

DSC_0202_zpsq711kall.jpg

DSC_0201_zps0r9psih4.jpg

everyone loves looking down a shiny bonnet :P

DSC_0198_zpslhrciuhs.jpg

and what does it do immediately???? rain

DSC_0205_zpsrmvnfqs1.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...

Did mine a couple of weeks ago. Steps were as follows . 

Used Bowdens Own wheely clean.

Washed with bowdens nano wash using two bucket method.

Claybar using mild nano wash solution for lubrication.

Bowdens paint cleanse and restore

Meguiars tech wax 2.0 applied with DA polisher

Waited 4 hours then used Bowdens fully slick .

Plus tyre shine . Pretty happy with the results

20170326_145228.jpg

20170326_145234.jpg

Edited by havoc_r33gtst
Added another image
  • Like 3
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Finally got around to removing the nasty yellow haze of the daily 35's headlights. No befores (just imagine all 35's that live outside 24/7) but fairly simple process:

1. Wet sand with 1500 grit paper

2. Polished with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and medium cut pad

3. Sealed with a Dupli-Color UV Resistant Clear Coat, otherwise they will just go back to being yellow in a few weeks

IQhzjr3.jpg

UT5rTd9.jpg

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...
1 hour ago, Dandee said:

robert downey jr ok GIF
Had the guys from schmicko do it at my house, really nice end result. A bit pricey, but definitely cheaper than the in store detailing centres. If only I took a before photo! Oh and they also applied ceramic coating yeaaaaah!

detailing.JPG

Cost?

  • 1 month later...

It was $790, which is actually a good price now that I think about it, especially when dealerships charge $1-$2k for something like this and they use half-ass products. Oh and I paid about $300 for the exterior detail prior to this, so paint correction, machine buffed, clay barred and all that. Doesn't look as good here because of my poor quality camera, looks so much better in real life, not sure where else they do, but i think the ycover mainly most of Sydney, can go here mobile car detailing . I did think about doing this myself or asking a mate/car enthusiast, but just wanted the extra peace of mind; but hey no complaints haha

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...