Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So while i have everything out of the engine bay i have decided to repaint it. I'm thinking silver, should work well with the burgandy/maroon colour the car is. Also while there is nothing sitting in the engine bay i have decided to start chasing a little extra steering lock. This will be brought about by;

> modifying the x-member and moving the steering rack forward 20-25mm to minimise steering bind at full lock
> using R33 LCA's to increase front track and negative camber

> using A32 maxima tie rod's which are 325mm in length, longer than standard R32 items

> getting standard knuckle's modified by JDI fabrication

> keeping standard R32 tie rod ends

> using GKtech steering rack lock washers

Overall this should provide a fairly decent amount of steering lock without going to ridiculous lengths. A few people i have talked to have said that this setup provides them with more lock than they need to use, which is good news :)

Also, GATE!

10171105_10152410893423130_4480028552905

Needs moar engine to be attached to. It's currently at the fabricator getting baffles and trapdoors in the sump :)

Has already been machined for external VCT feed, internal VCT feed welded up, sent to the machine shop and machined flat and had a braided line made up. Still needs tensioner tapped, sump finished, drill and tap bosses for knock sensors, -10 AN fittings welded to the sump.

Will also get braided lines made up for the power steering which will be P clamped in position.

Then I will get it back and assemble the engine and drop it in the car, take it back to fabricator and get dump pipe, screamer pipe and 3" full stainless straight through exhaust made up. Should sound angry, but never heard an RB with full straight through staino before so slightly worried about volume haha.

  • 2 weeks later...

So i have decided to redo the wiring loom and ditch anything that is not necessary. Downloaded the R34 service manual and jumped in trying to nut everything out. Was a bit confusing at first but with the circuit diagram and the ECU pin out it made life easier. I think i have figured what i am able to cut out of the loom and what i have to keep (everything highlighted is staying).

aRCbzpi.jpg

D0A4gpf.jpg

Also a before and after of what the loom should look like. Obviously there isn't over 100 wires standard as some are unused, but it still cuts it down quite dramatically :)

uZiq4cj.jpg

I was originally planning to keep the ECU in the standard position and run the loom up behind the dash and through the firewall on the drivers side using a Deutsch Autosport bulkhead connector. Part of the reason i wanted to do this was that it would make life easier if i ever had to take the engine out again, and partly because it is a cool idea and would give me some experience with wiring. Following wiring diagrams and making a Mil-spec loom seemed like a pretty cool idea to me as it is the sort of stuff that i would actually enjoy doing!

Unfortunately other priorities have taken over and i don't think i will have the extra cash lying around to be able to use the bulkhead connector. At around $120 a pop it is honestly money i am better off spending elsewhere on the build (don't worry, it has already been spent on other cool things haha)

I will still be leaving extra wires in the harness so as i can connect them up to oil pressure, oil temp, water temp and air inlet temp sensors to feed that information back into the ECU. Eventually i would like to run a IQ3 dash or something similar with all the info i will ever need on there, so deciding to do it this way to futureproof.

Also had some mates come round on the weekend (thanks Sean, Callum and Jordan!) and prep my engine bay for paint. It is the one thing that has always annoyed me about the car. It has been partly epainted in a similar red by the old owner but it really wasn't even close to the original colour. And in other spots the paint had started fading. I really regretted not doing it when i dropped the 25 in so this time i made sure it got done.

I got talked into going silver by my mates when i really wanted to go bronze in the engine bay, to match my wheels. They all thought that it came out great but i'm not sure i'm 100% convinced with it yet. Will see what it looks like when i drop the engine in.

LkyYPWz.jpg

oMidrZo.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Looking good man, wish I had the time to spend on my car like you.

Took me 5 weeks to install a turbo lol

Haha fuark that. When i was originally putting the Neo in that's what it was like for me, only had access to it for maybe 5-6 hours a week. I had no idea what i was doing so i spent 4 of those hours standing there looking at it trying to figure out what i was doing hahaha. I am glad i have some sort of clue now ;)

Fark yeah nice work, loom looks very tidy, wiring scares me so I paid someone to do mine ha

Yeah it scared the shit out of me too man, but i just jumped in and had a crack! I just spent ages looking through the wiring diagrams and reading the service manual figuring out exactly what every component did, then deciding if it was need to run or not. It took me maybe 8 hours of finding what was what and if it was staying or going, and then another good few hours wrapping everything in the braided wrap. Now it's just a matter of fingers corssed and hope it all works!

Have been away for work all this month, back on the 27th and then off again to New Zealand early in July. Hopefully i can get the engine assembled between then, that way when i get back from NZ i can focus on getting it running :)

I think i have almost everything i need now except a fuel pressure regulator and i need another 7psi wastegate spring, oh and still need to get the ECU.

Big things happening soon hopefully! :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Progress!

qzhkyEA.jpg

> Put spigot in, used ARP bolts for flywheel, put flywheel on.
> Removed flywheel and put gearbox cover plate on.
> Put flywheel back on.
> Gearbox on
> Attempted to put engine in
> Removed clutch master cylinder
> Put engine in

Thoughts on everything so far. I need a new clutch master cylinder as the R32 one is too long and fouls on the plenum. Will be going the tried and true method of getting an R33 item. Extended sump site perfectly between the cross member and swaybar, couldn't be happier with it fitment wise. I use Nismo engine mounts and only found out while putting the engine in that they sit the engine higher than standard nissan mounts. The bonnet will be very close to no shutting, i think i will have to cut out the ribbing on the inside of it to be able to shut it haha, it's something i am slightly worried about. Also the turbo looks a whole lot bigger sitting up high and not lurking down out of view anymore!

When i get my cooler piping done i will get my fabricator to make the rad support removable as it really is a pain. I don't plan on taking the engine out (obviously!) but it will be so much easier if i have to. Any one have any idea of the legalities of a removable rad support?

Next up is putting everything back into the engine bay and connecting everything back up, which i can't wait to get stuck into!

Eh, i have given up on trying to make dates as to when stuff will be completed. It always makes me sad when they come and go haha. Realistically sometime in October but if the stars align hopefully as early as september :)

Nice! I've always wanted to have an RB25/30 but I never had the time, knowledge or money to be able to do it.

I'm just going to push my neo until it breaks and then that will give me the excuse to do what you have done.

Awesome job on the loom also!

I never thought i would have the time, money or knowledge either! But then i found SAU and just started reading everything possible. Then when i killed my Neo i had plenty of time to read up. After all the reading i had the knowledge, and because so much time had passed i now had the money hahah :)

I just love knowing how things work and love having a crack at whatever presents itself. Every single thing on the car has been done by myself with no formal training at all, just a can do attitude and the internet haha. It's such a good feeling when you complete something that not long ago you would have never believed possible.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...