Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Two topics for updates.

1. As some of you may already be aware, I will be competing on behalf of SAU at Round 1 of Nulon Nationals 2015. I have to admit I'm pretty excited about this! It will be a gymkhana style event being run on the skid pan at Eastern Creek. Each course layout will be setup twice, side by side, so that we can have head to head battles. Hopefully we can bring home the win again!

2. I'm having some issues with my handbrake lol. It feels like either the left hand side isn't locking up at all when the car has some pace about it, or the right hand side is at least much more bias. Yesterday I pulled off the left disc and had a quick inspection of the handbrake setup and couldn't see any obvious problems. I adjusted the tightness of it and I could immediately feel that the handbrake was tighter through the handbrake lever in the cabin so was hopeful, but unfortunately didn't appear to make much difference. I will trace the handbrake line this afternoon to see if perhaps the cable is bound up or unbalanced, but any suggestions from people would be greatly appreciated! With the car up on stands and rolling in first gear the use of the handbrake does lock both wheels, it just appears to not lock up or not lock up as much as the right when driving at a faster speed on the road, say over 30km/h.

if your handbrake shoes are at different extensions, the handbrake lever will still be "soft" and pull up further.. to fix this you will need to extend both handbrake shoes out by flicking little switch up ( i think up) through the hole in the rear rotor..

i assume you know how to do this.. make sure the handbrake is off when you do this and just keep checking as you adjust ie flick up 2 clicks each side (perhaps click all down so its at its lowest setting) and just keep clicking, pull up handbrake to check tension, release and adjust by more clicks if neccessary.

then once your happy leave the handbrake ON and use a wheelnut on a bare stud (no wheel) and turn the rotors each side to check the lock of the handbrake.. if the rotor makes a big movement before locking it is not engaging properly and the diff is locking with the handbrake on the other side.

i could explain it betterer but you get the jist.

  • Like 1

to fix this you will need to extend both handbrake shoes out by flicking little switch up ( i think up) through the hole in the rear rotor..

This is what I did yesterday, however I'm wondering whether the left hand side was out so much that by adjusting it up (possibly equalling out) and then adjusting the right hand side, I have put it to a more bias right again. I'm going to adjust the left side up a few more clicks this afternoon and see whether this even it out or not. If it still is out, I will adjust both sides as low as though go and then move them up in an even fashion :)

  • 1 month later...

Well after a recent trip to Japan I have purchased a few goodies for the R34.

I bought a suede deep dish Nardi and boss kit which I fitted as soon as I got home.
aaxjef.jpg

I'm waiting for my Nismo engine and gearbox mounts to be delivered (my bags weighed too much), as well as a Rapfix II quick release which I purchased online but is also being sent from Japan haha.

  • Like 1

Nulon Nationals was also on the Saturday just passed, and I had a blast! I think the SAU team represented really well for an event aimed at the smaller cars. I might have been a little too happy but man the wet track made it slippery!

Here are a couple of pics courtesy of crashdown from on here on the forums:

16304644152_50349b5a47_b.jpg

16305510565_c3d2541ec8_b.jpg

16305516515_25ee98d4d7_b.jpg

15683094584_fb7dc08dde_b.jpg

16119366379_03839c6024_b.jpg

16118148650_fca87d9b8c_b.jpg

16117973138_4e691c9afb_b.jpg

16279587036_de12d437c8_b.jpg

For sale. Second hand R34 GTT gearbox. Low km's, great condition.

sct7vc.jpg

35j9e1x.jpg

Wooweee just reading over this thread haven't finished yet

I too thought rb25 boxes where as tough as nails

My car is about 180k kms on it now and about to start track days :/

Engine and gearbox mounts, as well as a low temp thermostat.

I noticed after the Supersprints at Bathurst that I was getting a lot of movement coming through the gearstick with launches and under heavy braking even so I've decided to stiffen it all up a bit.

I plan to change the gearbox mount this weekend unless I get lazy, but has anyone changed engine mounts with the engine still in the car? How difficult of a job have I given myself? Lol.

Low temp thermostat will go in at a later date, just decided to get it with the other stuff. I plan on doing a 100k service and fitting a new radiator later in the year so will do it then.

  • 4 weeks later...

No real updates as such, fitted the Nismo gearbox mount a couple of weeks ago but have barely driven the car to say if there is any noticeable difference.

Will be attending the NSW Hill Climb Championship Rounds 2 and 3 this weekend in Bathurst (along with a mate in his R33 - Yeedogga on the forum here) so I'm pretty keen for that.

We had been semi joking about making up front splitters for our cars for a little while and have decided to do it this week before Bathurst if we can accomplish it, so will post pics on how that goes. Videos/pics to come of Bathurst as well.

Well the 2 day rush project to make a front splitter for my car has been completed. Please bare in mind this is in no way meant to be a professional job and was more so done as a fun/experimental project. I will let the pictures do the talking.

11017075_830502320341591_180891310747239

10999605_832347533490403_208996488947296

10649500_832347660157057_227236103338087

10947185_832347680157055_642149081705037

I have no idea whether the splitter will affect the car positively or not, but the hill climbs in Bathurst this weekend should be a good test. After a quick drive out the highway to make sure it wasn't going to just snap off at any form of high speed, I feel that at the very least, the bracing has stiffened the front end of the car up. Time will tell.

It will also need to be trimmed down, assuming I decide to keep it on the car lol, as to meet NSW Time Attack regulations which I plan to enter later in the year. Clubsprint rules deem that a front splitter can protrude up to 50mm, currently this is around 60-65mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...