Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So initial word back from GCG is that the core needs to be replaced in the HKS, housing seems to be ok

We'll get a phone call sometime this week to go pick it up

In the mean time, we went a bit crazy on a recent order with HiOctane for the 34......

Cq4WU1m.jpg

So we have got:

Haltech ECU

Tomei Type-B Pon Cams

Tomei Cam Gears

Walbro in-tank fuel pump

850cc injectors and FPR

Upgrades gears for the oil pump

All this will go in after the track day in September, I want to get used to the new clutch first before putting more power in the car

We'll also be putting in a Gates timing belt and a new water pump while we are in there.

Also planing to get a Plazmaman plenum, throttle body and Billet fuel rail, paint the rocker covers and clean up the bay a bit

BRB while I start on my Mi Goreng diet lol

  • Like 3

I'm not too fussed on the wait for the extra power but my mates and mechanic have been pushing me to do the work now and not wait until after track day.

I could do it all now and it might be ready by track day (all depends on my tuner) but I will probably miss the 32 GTR 25th anniversary day cruise/lunch next month which I really want to take the 34 to

Having no boost for a month is a killer lol, it's an addiction. The longest I've gone without the car previously has been 2 weeks so this is a real test for me, it's like giving up smoking lol

I am interested in seeing how much power I will get out of her once everything is in and the HKS finally pushed its limits (only running at 50% at the moment)

Looks like a fun combination haha. My car should be ready in September too, maybe we should organise a cruise somewhere...

Nice, what are you getting done?

I'll be up for a cruise up until track day late September, need to rack up the k's on the new clutch, come October she'll most likely be off the road again for the work.

Nice, what are you getting done?

I'll be up for a cruise up until track day late September, need to rack up the k's on the new clutch, come October she'll most likely be off the road again for the work.

Same as yours but instead of cams I'm chucking on an SS2 turbo. Should be pretty quick once tuned. Hoping for 300 at the wheels

So initial word back from GCG is that the core needs to be replaced in the HKS, housing seems to be ok

We'll get a phone call sometime this week to go pick it up

In the mean time, we went a bit crazy on a recent order with HiOctane for the 34......

Cq4WU1m.jpg

So we have got:

Haltech ECU

Tomei Type-B Pon Cams

Tomei Cam Gears

Walbro in-tank fuel pump

850cc injectors and FPR

Upgrades gears for the oil pump

All this will go in after the track day in September, I want to get used to the new clutch first before putting more power in the car

We'll also be putting in a Gates timing belt and a new water pump while we are in there.

Also planing to get a Plazmaman plenum, throttle body and Billet fuel rail, paint the rocker covers and clean up the bay a bit

BRB while I start on my Mi Goreng diet lol

You only need the one cam gear man... And also why the upgrade for the oil pump? Mine has held up so far with the abuse...

Might look into head studs and cam springs if you want to run bigger boost, these can be done on the car without lifting the head :yes:

Organise your entry for the track day in September hahaha

I might do. It'll be pretty rubbish as it's on standard shocks though haha. Also I have no licence or helmet or gear or fire extinguisher. I might aim for the next one hahaha

I might do. It'll be pretty rubbish as it's on standard shocks though haha. Also I have no licence or helmet or gear or fire extinguisher. I might aim for the next one hahaha

I have spare helmet and extinguisher you can borrow

Licence is easy to get $50

I have spare helmet and extinguisher you can borrow

Licence is easy to get $50

This is about as tempting as a kebab after a big night on the piss. I'll see how the build and tune goes with Paul. Might just unplug the boost controller and run it as rich as a Saudi prince if it's too quick for the suspension

You only need the one cam gear man... And also why the upgrade for the oil pump? Mine has held up so far with the abuse...

If I'm going to upgrade 1 might as well do both.

I'd rather play it safe with the oil pump, minimize the chance of failure in the future

Might look into head studs and cam springs if you want to run bigger boost, these can be done on the car without lifting the head :yes:

Might be an idea. What's the limit on boost with stock studs and springs?

If I'm going to upgrade 1 might as well do both.

I'd rather play it safe with the oil pump, minimize the chance of failure in the future

Might be an idea. What's the limit on boost with stock studs and springs?

Stock studs held up OK when i was running 24psi but eventually i would have done a headgasket... I would say 20psi on stock springs and studs to be safe as long as you have a good tuner... Others might have different opinions?

Most engines start having issues once they have been messed with (in regards to bearings and bottom ends and stuff) best leave it the way it came from Nissan and thrash... I thought mine may have proven that to ya by now :P

  • Like 1

Stock studs held up OK when i was running 24psi but eventually i would have done a headgasket... I would say 20psi on stock springs and studs to be safe as long as you have a good tuner... Others might have different opinions?

Most engines start having issues once they have been messed with (in regards to bearings and bottom ends and stuff) best leave it the way it came from Nissan and thrash... I thought mine may have proven that to ya by now :P

Sounds good seeing as my MAP sensor will only let me run 21psi haha. I hope I land in a pit of money soon so I can come on the track day

If I'm going to upgrade 1 might as well do both.

I'd rather play it safe with the oil pump, minimize the chance of failure in the future

if you use the intake cam gear you are going to lose your VCT as its a single unit and cannot be mated to the adjustable cam because well thats sorta what VCT is!.

go take it back and get them $$ back!

if not you could always sell it to someone else and they can flip it around and use as an exh gear.

  • 2 weeks later...

The new clutch feels good, it will take a a little while to get used to it. Different friction point and it's a little heavier than my old one

Time to bed it in and get ready for track day next month :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...