Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You want to spend 10k? but don't want to mod your current car.... and think you will get a reliable Evo or WRX for that said 10k - Tell em there dreaming!

Mate throw a couple grand into the 34 :)

Otherwise, Il sell you my sisters Hyundai Getz for $10k

BUY A ROTARY.

hahahahahahahaha.

/Serious.

1100 kilo RX7 with 300hp at the wheels for under 10 k.
80's model, S2 or S3.

Will blow your socks off.
And sits between Falcon 4l six and Commo 7 litre V8 in terms of fuel economy.

Best of both worlds!
HAHAHA.

Serious, get a rotor or do what others have said and fork out for a 450-500 whp RB25/30 build from Croydon, just under 10 K will get you the assembled run-in motor for your R34.

haha hello rotor, goodbye fuel economy and apex seals.

It's quite unlikely you'll find a fast and reliable import of any type for under 10k, you may luck out though. It's also why people keep suggesting locally made stuff. Up your price range perhaps?

  • Like 1

well its becoming more and more obvious that sticking with my 34 is the best option for me. still an import and isn't too problematic. seeing as i definitely cant up the budget, or afford any large modifications to my car right now anyways.

thanks for all the help guys. :)

If you can find a looked after 300ZX they are great. I know everyone will say they are shit, however i've owned a few of them and aslong as you don't buy a lemon and take care of it they are fine. My mate just paid 10k for his, 230rwkw on stock turbos and only 12psi.

haha hello rotor, goodbye fuel economy and apex seals.

It's quite unlikely you'll find a fast and reliable import of any type for under 10k, you may luck out though. It's also why people keep suggesting locally made stuff. Up your price range perhaps?

HEY!

They only fail because people fail to warm them up and cool them down properly.

And the seals are EXACTLY like a 100,000km service, just you have to actually pull the engine apart to do them.

I've owned two rotors both with over 200,000km's on them, one was the original motor and had the seals replaced at both 100,000km marks, ran like a dream and never gave me an issue.

Then I bought a GTS-T Skyline...

Yeesh.

Own a GTR now, and have a daily Subaru Impreza.

Wish I still had a rotor, but I currently can't afford the fuel due to heavy traffic in the city.

Don't wanna watch my fuel gauge go from a full tank to a 1/4 of a tank in 150 meters.

:wub:

Anyway, if you want something sporty, small, and good on fuel, get a Datsun to keep it in the nissan family, plenty can be had in good condition, like a 260z for around 9 grand that are decent cars, little Datto 1200 utes go for around five, drop an SR20DET in it and chuck skids and have decent fuel economy.

Or, do as I suggested and build your existing car, being that it's only a GTT, may as well go dog balls nuts on it.

If you can find a looked after 300ZX they are great. I know everyone will say they are shit, however i've owned a few of them and aslong as you don't buy a lemon and take care of it they are fine. My mate just paid 10k for his, 230rwkw on stock turbos and only 12psi.

Zed's are quite good as this man says.

Most people just flog them and complain when something breaks.

Rip the engine out, tighten it all up, metal gaskets, a couple of slightly bigger turbo's, up the boost and put a 3" exhaust on it and drive that.

They sound AWESOME with a good exhaust, and when you put your foot on the loud pedal.

Darn-Diddly-arn-it.

They sound tarn, tootin' amazing.

I'd use real swear words.

But that's a No No. :(

And Zeds aren't as bad as people say with the "engine out" issues.

As bad to work on as a GTR.

Just gotta be a little patient.

VG motors can handle quite a lot, and make power faster stock than a Skyline will.

/FLAME SUIT IS ON.

HEY!

They only fail because people fail to warm them up and cool them down properly.

And the seals are EXACTLY like a 100,000km service, just you have to actually pull the engine apart to do them.

so, not EXACTLY like a 100k service.

I know of no other engine that requires removal and complete pull down to perform a 100k service.

and besides, the power you get from them, I make better power from my .5l skyline motor.

  • 4 weeks later...

Have you held a rotary engine?
It's kinda like a large football.
And they are quite easy to work on.

Yeah admittedly they don't make as much power N/A. but boost them, and they start chasing numbers at high revs.. like 12000rpm. lol

Look.
I have an R32 GTR on my list for a reason.
But Wankel Engines are a cool, odd thing.


And are still fun to own because they make power faster than any other P plate legal NA engine.

Edited by RBMunkie

Have you held a rotary engine?

It's kinda like a large football.

And they are quite easy to work on.

no, I havnt held one in my hands.

and a large metal football.

and not THAT easy.

you were comparing apex seals to a 100k service.

so, a timing belt.

can knock over a timing belt in under an hour.

it takes 1hr for a rotory rebuild?

Yeah admittedly they don't make as much power N/A.

what I was getting at was they cheating way they calculate the capacity.

eg, '1.3' is really a 3.9l.

so, compare the rx8 to the new commo or falcon.

But Wankel Engines are a cool, odd thing.

there are alot of 'cool, odd things' I wouldnt own.

And are still fun to own because they make power faster than any other P plate legal NA engine.

refer back to my capacity/falcodore statement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...