Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/80218-leks-auto/

Send him a mesage; he's Russian but speaks English.
I'm pretty sure he runs a workshop; I'm sure he could point you in the right direction

Genuine.

I only have the PN for the entire turbo gasket set, which is worthwhile having if you plan to change the turbo one day. 14401-AQ826

Is yours damaged? I have never needed to replace one as yet.

found one @ just jap. i'll order one when i get the bc coilovers.

http://justjap.com/index.php/genuine-nissan-turbo-dump-pipe-gasket-nissan-stagea-nm35-vq25det.html

Nissan p/n 14445-4P200

Edited by FIA510

Perfect . thx for the advise. My luck is , that it would leak.

I ordered a new one today, along with a set of BC BR's from Just Jap. Going all out next friday. New Auto, exhaust & dump, HDI FMI & Bc's, R/C gaskets & a service... also a set of wheel bearings in the front..

Going to be a busy friday..

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Mrs. and I are maybe considering a Stagea ARX four. The car will be for her.

Any common major issues to look out for? (Problems that would require me to take it to a specialist)

Plan on keeping it 100% stock.

90% urban use and shopping centre car parks. Other 10% country driving to the snow/holiday spots.

I plan to do regular maintence etc.

Use search function and you will find whaf you require.

Common issues

.turbo side cam cover gasket will split leaking oil onto turbo

.turbo blowing (oil starvaton)

.blow off valve farting

.restrictions in the dump pipe

.carbo build up in engine (apparent when you replace your cam gasket)

.oem boost controller will play up occasionally limiting boost at times

.banjo restricted.

Hope this helps. Im sure others can add to it

  • Like 1

Mine is still going I think, I lent it to Jase a year ago. 13 years is pretty reliable if you ask me.

If only Nissan still sold that original part, not the part they sell now which only lasts a few weeks. (if you are lucky.)

My aftermarket ones seem to be lasting fine Leon... :)

  • Like 1

Factory bov farting ? Is that the noise i hear at around 3500 on occasions, from the drivers sideof the car ?

Most likely. It's a weird sound. The stock BOV goes soft over time and farts as it isn;t strong enough to stay closed.

Grab a turbosmart Kompact BOV. Straight bolt on and will help hold boost if you start upping the boost at all

it happens every now & then in between gears. I'll be looking into the Kompact BOV asap.

Where does the factory boost guage connect up ? Mine is is always reading in the neg & occasionally goes to 0.

Is there a guage you can swap in it's orig place without going all ricer & mounting one.?

it happens every now & then in between gears. I'll be looking into the Kompact BOV asap.

Where does the factory boost guage connect up ? Mine is is always reading in the neg & occasionally goes to 0.

Is there a guage you can swap in it's orig place without going all ricer & mounting one.?

there is a common fault with them. they get dry joints on the sensor. there is a "how to" around done by scotty showing the fix. but the stock gauge isn't super accurate so if you are planning any major mods you will want a differant gauge. There are lot of differant ways people have mounted them so they dont stand out all ricer style

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...