Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine is still going I think, I lent it to Jase a year ago. 13 years is pretty reliable if you ask me.

If only Nissan still sold that original part, not the part they sell now which only lasts a few weeks. (if you are lucky.)

My aftermarket ones seem to be lasting fine Leon... :)

That's a good point Scotty, & you are totally correct. Just because a heap have failed in the last 12 months or so, doesn't make the AFM any less reliable then a cam sensor, window motor or electric seat switch. They're all going to be getting close to the end of their life after 13 years or so.

I've got 2 original AFM's & given how little distance my car gets driven, I reckon I'm set for another decade or 2 :)

it happens every now & then in between gears. I'll be looking into the Kompact BOV asap.

Where does the factory boost guage connect up ? Mine is is always reading in the neg & occasionally goes to 0.

Is there a guage you can swap in it's orig place without going all ricer & mounting one.?

sensor of a black oval box in engine bay next to wheel arch. Pull it apart and resolder the points.
  • 1 month later...

To follow on from the Facebook argument from last night... M35 part required for when the time travel switch fails on the clock assembly.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EB00/121G.oap?ck=Search_121g_-1_-1&keyword=121g

  • Like 3

Does anyone have the part number for the lower ballpoints from Nissan and a price? I recently sourced some v35 ones and installed them and now front end has constant cracking in the front end.

Does anyone have the part number for the lower ballpoints from Nissan and a price? I recently sourced some v35 ones and installed them and now front end has constant cracking in the front end.

For ballpoints, you can't go past BIC. :P

  • Like 4

Does anyone have the part number for the lower ballpoints from Nissan and a price? I recently sourced some v35 ones and installed them and now front end has constant cracking in the front end.

Assume you mean ball joints yeah? the lowest ones on the steering knuckle?

Nissan doesn't sell it separately, they'll only sell you the whole assembly. Have to go on ebay.

Does anyone have the part number for the lower ballpoints from Nissan and a price? I recently sourced some v35 ones and installed them and now front end has constant cracking in the front end.

Was it these ones you bought?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FRONT-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-Set-NISSAN-SKYLINE-V35-01-07-/190450769457?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c57c01e31#ht_2375wt_1180

DAmmit I bought them too, seems like some other haven't had issues with them though...

  • 3 weeks later...

Microguard Pure-Tron Cabin Filter: B74946N025

This probably won't help many. I found that my Stagea didn't use the standard cabin filter instead in it's place is a Microguard Pure-Tron:

http://www.calsonickansei.co.jp/english/products/accessory.html

When i'd pulled the glove box etc.. out i was presented with this:

post-128502-0-89243200-1404046189_thumb.jpg

post-128502-0-21133400-1404046746_thumb.jpg

post-128502-0-32494700-1404046776_thumb.jpg

Amayama have the replacement filter for ~$65. Looking for alternatives.

Yeah it's an Ioniser, with a filter sitting in it. It's the first one I've seen like this, all the previous ones i've seen / dealt with have been the parcel shelf models in Skylines and 'rollas.

The standard filter doesn't fit, it's way too big (i purchased one prior to pulling the car apart). The ioniser takes a up about half the height and the filter sits within it's frame making it smaller in all directions.

Size comparison (Stock filter bottom):

post-128502-0-59981800-1404092550_thumb.jpg

I had the same as this on my ARX. Gave up trying to find a replacement that fitted, and when back to the XTrail/Maxima sized one...

In addition, the actual ioniser screen was discussting, covered in cigarette smoke like rubbish... Actually found it all in the garage over the weekend and tossed it..

  • 2 weeks later...

G'day all,

I'm chasing part numbers and possible price of valve stem seals for vq25det engine. Any help would be great.

It's an engine out job, are you sure it's the valve stem seals? Have you tried leak testing them or something?

It's just the PCV valve, it sucks crankcase vapours into your engine and overnight they condense and run down onto the valve. It burns off as you take off in the morning.

I wouldn't worry about it at all. I ended up fitting a catch can to my PCV line, but it has to be sealed as it's in vac. It worked well to stop it, but it's a pain to drain.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...