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At the time I was happy to buy a clean mostly std 96 without ABS , just more crud you can't legally remove and expensive boxes that can fail . Couldn't escape the drivers handbags though .

If I had to rebuild a 25 short I'd use Neo style rods pistons and lid .

A .

Nope, though I personally wouldn't go for the HTA2868 twins that are available - I doubt the combination would match up overly well to an RB... especially when squeezed into those little housings. Owen Developments sell them though, and someone installed a pair on his GTR but then had an engine failure which set him back something fierce so not sure if or when that will be back together. It seems folly to me to try and push past the "-5s" flow at this stage in those housings, I guess the closest to a setup like that which I would like to see would be more like upgrading low mount T517Zs to use the 68HTA wheels, probably less likely to surge and generally be a better match.

Fair point. I had a feeling that little rear housing would/is the bottle neck. -5's it is then!

Fair point. I had a feeling that little rear housing would/is the bottle neck. -5's it is then!

What would be nice would be an HTA equivalent of -9s IMHO, something that flowed a bit more than -5s but spooled better than any low mount bolton option currently available. Wonder if the would bite :-D

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

ata-cid='6899132' name='Piggaz' timestamp='1371733825' post='6899132']

What would be nice would be an HTA equivalent of -9s IMHO, something that flowed a bit more than -5s but spooled better than any low mount bolton option currently available. Wonder if the would bite :-D

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

I actually thought something along those lines after i posted it. Same peak figure flow of a -5, just come on even earlier. I would be so down for that!!!!!

I actually thought something along those lines after i posted it. Same peak figure flow of a -5, just come on even earlier. I would be so down for that!!!!!

Never satisfied :P

Don't even know if they make something like that.

Nothing really has happened for the low mount GTR setup for years.

Unless you have a 35gtr :ph34r: they have been making some crazy numbers lately with the HTAs

Don't even know if they make something like that.

Nothing really has happened for the low mount GTR setup for years.

Because going to a bigger single is winning - and it seems people are more keen on winning these days :D Twin scroll HTA3586 would go nicely! ;)

Because going to a bigger single is winning - and it seems people are more keen on winning these days :D Twin scroll HTA3586 would go nicely! ;)

I have no doubt that a well matched single would yield a better result... Just can't give up the "standard look" :/

^ just black everything like Mat, for ninja stealth look lol

Lol i think Paul killed mine in terms of the stock look..... But mine is :ph34r: spec..... I was originally going to do the front housing of the turbo BUT it looks too good and i am kidding myself if i think i can hide it :laugh:

Yours looks more stock than most RB25DET engine bays, defect free I guess?

then again it depends on the copper :)

I've been pulled over in my shitbox and popped the hood. I told the copper it's stock and he was like yeah it looks pretty stock to me, close bonnet.. happy days.

Maybe the stock airbox saved me from a defect, hopefully be getting turbo/manifold by Q3 after my tax returns hehe

A low mounted 6boost I think could almost get away with it, I just need a heatshield made up and it will come as close as it gets I think.

If you are fouling the front housing on the 3037 then the HTA version wouldn't have much chance as it has a bigger front cover again, i should have got a side by side pic but i didn't think of it at the time!

If you are fouling the front housing on the 3037 then the HTA version wouldn't have much chance as it has a bigger front cover again, i should have got a side by side pic but i didn't think of it at the time!

I even asked you to :P On that note, DYNO PLOTS???!!! :P

I think it could be done, engine mount moved/modded but its a PITA

You have done an epic job! Hurry up and get results ;)

I even asked you to :P On that note, DYNO PLOTS???!!! :P

Did you? Oops...

I sent an email and Adam will do it when he gets a chance :) You waited this long, so wait some more hehehe

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. 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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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