Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just spent all weekend trying to get my 02 sensor off with no luck...

I've used the special socket and it's on that tight that it's just stripping back the thread.. Tried WD40 to loosen it and even with a breaker bar and a 22mm socket it still won't budge!

What are my options? :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Replaced my O2 sensor with a nissan universal one from repco, worked ok for 1000km but then started bugging up. Was slightly hesitating at cruising speed then fuel economy went bad and finally engine light came on at cruising speed. My tuner said unplug the sensor and see if the problem is still there, so I did and that fixed it.

So now I'm going to have to replace it again. And this time it's going to be geniuine.

universal = :happy:

'93 HCR32 GTST OZA395-E2 $76.50ish from Bursons trade price, plug fits.

Just confirming for everyone, as this thread lacks R32 info. If a mod could add it to the first post in this thread it would be good.

I just had a look at mine this arvo quickly, been told the front one is playing up, but what did the stock RB26DETT come out with for R33? mine has o2 sensor at the rear with 3 wires, front one has only 2 wires coming from it?

which one has been changed previously? im guessing the one with 3 wires (i.e rear) has been replaced at some stage.

Now if going to buy one, are the front and rear ones the same on R33 gtr? or different part numbers?

on the R33 GTR, your o2 sensors should have 3 wires.

The one with 2 wires has been changed obviously to another type of sensor.

Front and rear are the same but with different connectors thus the different part numbers.

This link should help you : http://wardiz.over-blog.com/article-34295259.html

I just had a look at mine this arvo quickly, been told the front one is playing up, but what did the stock RB26DETT come out with for R33? mine has o2 sensor at the rear with 3 wires, front one has only 2 wires coming from it?

which one has been changed previously? im guessing the one with 3 wires (i.e rear) has been replaced at some stage.

Now if going to buy one, are the front and rear ones the same on R33 gtr? or different part numbers?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I replaced mine recently with a universal one from EL Falcon. Originally tried to solder wires but it's f**king impossible! It comes with a joiner though so i used that instead.

It's working pretty well, fuel economy is better (not sure by how much yet) but yeah see how long it lasts.

PS. Use anti-sieze on all exhaust bolts makes your like much easier getting them off later, thankfully whoever worked on my car did use it and it was piece of cake to get the old one out.

on the R33 GTR, your o2 sensors should have 3 wires.

The one with 2 wires has been changed obviously to another type of sensor.

Front and rear are the same but with different connectors thus the different part numbers.

This link should help you : http://wardiz.over-blog.com/article-34295259.html

This is a good article on changing the O2 sensor on an R33 / R34 GTR. I've added it as a link to my GTaaargh O2 sensor page

If you find any part numbers that fit skylines or other useful links, let me know using the link at the bottom of my web page and I'll update the table. It saves trawling through 19 pages.

James

Here you have it NTK genuine nissan part $77 :)

* Nissan Skyline, R32 GTS-t

* Nissan Skyline, R32 GTS-4

* Nissan Skyline, R33 GTS25-t

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ng...25det-p-42.html

Edited by v8tzr

So the r32 rb20det and rb25det, came with two o2 sensors? one near the dump pipe? and one further down the exhaust, to quote the shop that tuned my car, they think my 02 sensor is lazy, so I suppose it's on the way out.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

I have apexi turbo timer with O2 sensor voltage reading feature. How do i know from voltage reading when my sensor are bad?

When i put the ign into ACC (engine isn't started yet), the display reads 0.2 V from O2 sensor. Is it normal? I have 3 inch cat exhaust on my RB20DET, I thought when engine is off, outside air would came inside and make the sensor reads rich near 1 V (a lot of oxygen). Any thoughts?

Thanks

  • 1 month later...

Damn, this is a sticky? Was looking for a replacement O2 sensor for a RB25DE..got to page 12! total confusion.

Guys the O2 sensor only controls EFI in closed loop mode..cruise or light throttle, anything else is determined by your map values and if it's OEM then rich is the key word..to save warranty claims, aftermarket..you need a tune. Sooo your not going to see huge increases in economy, unless you do a lot of highway driving. This means turbo or non-turbo doesn't make a difference as far as the O2 sensor is concerned.

Also like MAP sensors or ECU temp sensors, they are specific to each manufacturers specs, even though they operate in the same range ie. 0-1v NB O2 sensors..0-5v MAP sensors..you need a replacement that duplicates the same specs...

BTW the lower sensor doesn't have anything to do with EFI, it monitors CAT integrity in a narrow band above 1200degF.

Thanks Kudos..going to place an order.

Edited by FTO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...