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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

well if anyone of the NEO ppl were hesitating about doing it, there is no excuse now

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-3-Wire-Universal-Oxygen-Sensor-O2-Easy-Fit-Kit-/120737660086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c867cb6#ht_3120wt_1244

i bought the r33 one and cut the plug off (tried to be tricky and pull the pins out and swap them but they are slightly bigger in the r33 plug)

wish i had seen this, looks like the same sensor but cheaper again!

with the r33 sensor installed i got under 10l/100kms on the drive from tas-gold coast (yesterday)

Have any more Neo people run these? Looking to potentially buy one as my factory plug on both harness and O2 sensor have melted so would be much easier install with this kit

i was reading this topic the other day was through i would change mine in the stagea.

i change the sensor still dont know if it fix my fuel economy. driving around like normally

and it still used alot of fuel. i got a ngk one from ebay through...

i was reading this topic the other day was through i would change mine in the stagea.

i change the sensor still dont know if it fix my fuel economy. driving around like normally

and it still used alot of fuel. i got a ngk one from ebay through...

That's not too hopeful. I think my current O2 sensor is ok and will be trying to do a direct wire in this arvo but if I have any problems was hoping to grab that ebay one for $40

  • 1 month later...

So I have never had any problems with fuel economy in my car but went and got it tuned today and the tuner actually turned the O2 sensor off because it was going spastic.

He showed me on the computer once the throttle is touched the O2 sensor went from nothing to max voltage straight away and just generally all over the place.

I tried to directly wire my O2 sensor in the other day could this be a stuff up with my wiring?

  • 9 months later...

tested my o2 sensor today, c34 stagea at warm idle to 3-4k revs i saw 0.3 -0.45 while parked. multimeter grounded in rocker cover and positive probe on black wire on o2 which is the thick brown wire on loom.

not sure what i'm looking for to confirm its stuffed other then it not alternating, unless i'm ment to be seeing more then 0.5v with no load parked ?

who can confirm?

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

Edited by Dan_J

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

R33 and Neo are different

  • 2 weeks later...

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

And then pay a little more and get an innovate wideband that has narrowband simulation for your ECU. Win win :)

  • 2 weeks later...

And then pay a little more and get an innovate wideband that has narrowband simulation for your ECU. Win win :)

Johnny are you using your WB as a NB simulator? If so how did you go about wiring it into the computer?

My NB has just blown so I going to use my techedge to simulate, it also has a function where I can alter the lean/ rich points so I can adjust stoich up or down for different fuels, or so I can target a leaner AFR

Wouldn't mind setting it up to hold 16:1 in closed loop, just to get better economy on cruise.

^ hey mate, I disconnected my narrowband in the engine bay and spliced the narrowband output from the innovate straight into the ECU harness.

There's no need to hook up the sensor ground and it worked really well. Not the first car I've done it to also, one thing I've noticed is that it "appears" to hit stoichiometric much quicker than factory narrowband O2s

Give it a crack you can't go wrong, in saying that I'm now running full closed loop fuel control with my wideband (running stand alone now woots)

I usually keep it stoich anything in vacuum up to atmospheric pressure (0.0psi), on cruise I'm a little cheeky and let it sit at 15.2

Best I've gotten out of 50L was 540km with the occasional squirt when I drove to Foster and back on 98 with the AC on most parts

  • 2 weeks later...

So when in closed loop I get a hi reading of 15.23:1 and a low reading of 14.39:1 for and average of 14.8:1

Did a run to the gold coast on the weekend and got 8.9 L/100Km ~ United P100

Might have another play with it and try to get an average closer to 15:1

gallery_89296_5394_98775.jpg

gallery_89296_5394_69245.jpg

Edited by Missileman

^ great job on the economy side - on very load & cruising RPM you could even lean it a a touch close to 15.5 if you're after economy.. however drop back the timing a little so keep the cylinders happy.

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