Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races!

Better tell that to the F1 manufactures...

Actually tell that to any race team that runs a turbo car that smashes larger displacement higher torque V8s. Do you remember Group A?

Or maybe you should grab a 6L turbo diesel and take it to the track and you will obliterate everything!

I personally love that phrase, makes it easy to pick out people with no clue

Edited by SimonR32

Lets compare apples here.

take for eg the current tube frame v8 supercars.

you have a choice, a 600hp SR20 or a 600hp 5L V8

but both still have a minimum weight of 1250kgs, same suspension same tyre etc.

which would you choose?

Lets compare apples here.

take for eg the current tube frame v8 supercars.

you have a choice, a 600hp SR20 or a 600hp 5L V8

but both still have a minimum weight of 1250kgs, same suspension same tyre etc.

which would you choose?

A SR20 as it would have more torque in the used rev range.

  • Like 1

A SR20 as it would have more torque in the used rev range.

And it would be geared so it would be in its sweet spot all the time, it would rev faster through its peak efficiency range and deliver torque to the wheels at a faster rate. therefor be much faster overall

Give me a rota spinning to 15000 rpm please

Edited by XGTRX

Lets compare apples here.

take for eg the current tube frame v8 supercars.

you have a choice, a 600hp SR20 or a 600hp 5L V8

but both still have a minimum weight of 1250kgs, same suspension same tyre etc.

which would you choose?

SR20, because it sounds better :ninja:

RB30 = Better rod stroke ratio.

RB26 = less registration issues here in VIC.

It it was without a custom crank id be going 30, if it was Regoed in VIC id be going 26.

There are lots of arguments for and against it, just as many for gear ratios, turbos etc which would make more changes at improving or ruining each engine sizes characteristics.

You need to look at it as a package, not just a engine package but including weight, gearing, tyres, track etc.

People like Berry successfully running a time attack RB30, lots of others running RB26's, some with stock cranks, some with strokers.

Better tell that to the F1 manufactures...

Actually tell that to any race team that runs a turbo car that smashes larger displacement higher torque V8s. Do you remember Group A?

Or maybe you should grab a 6L turbo diesel and take it to the track and you will obliterate everything!

I personally love that phrase, makes it easy to pick out people with no clue

have seen what the Americans are doing with Diesel engines these days or have been living under a rock?

I'm starting to feel like I am wasting too much time on forums, but I had already thrown this together to ponder it visibly so I thought I'd throw this into the mix given that piston speeds/acceleration relative to rod length and stroke seems to come up in these conversations all the time - my maths may or may not be right here (looks close to legit to me haha) but this is more just to get an indicator of the sheer acceleration of the piston (at the pin) of the different factory RB layouts.

I have used this calculation to work out piston acceleration relative to crank angle (l = rod length, r = crank radius, A = crank angle, 0deg crank angle = TDC):

post-11136-0-09400100-1382496780_thumb.png

Piston acceleration to sustain equivalent rpm:

post-11136-0-31005500-1382496878_thumb.png

Piston acceleration to move equivalent swept volume:

post-11136-0-93884400-1382496898_thumb.png

I did it for my own interest so I figured I may as well share it as I know that some other people like to ponder on this kind of thing too. If anyone have a better (or more OCD) handle on physics/maths then feel free to correct or add to it - but again I will probably make myself relative scarce after this so I'm adding it before I lose the bits and pieces I put together.

Cheers.

Sound... I'll just leave this here:

K'n hell. How many million revs is that thing pulling as it crosses the line? Sounds awesome.

Edited by Cowboy1600

Le Mans :P

Where they are quite a bit slower than the other cars but way more fuel efficient so don't have to stop as often.

It's not the torque which makes them competitive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...