Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For use guys that are running a flex fuel set up. Which content sensor are you using and what did it cost? I can get a genuine gm sensor which is the flow through type for around $200. I have not seen to many more for sale that are available locally

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434195-which-ethanol-content-sensor-to-use/
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

If I was to use an Adaptronic Select plug in ECU will this be compatible with it?

Yes, but remember adaptronic ECU doesn't truly do flex fuel - as it doesn't have the capability to blend maps like say a haltech as such.. it just adds/deducts timing and compensates fuel based on rpm/load.

good enough if you're mainly using E85 and pop in the occasional 98 or blends

Do you just pop the sensor inline in the return line then call it a day?

yepp and connect the sensor up.. if you're really tight you can connect the output to a digital volt gauge to measure ethanol content.

0V = no ethanol

1V = 20%

2V = 40%

3V = 60%

4V = 80%

5V = 100% ethanol

  • Like 1

Yes, but remember adaptronic ECU doesn't truly do flex fuel - as it doesn't have the capability to blend maps like say a haltech as such.. it just adds/deducts timing and compensates fuel based on rpm/load.

good enough if you're mainly using E85 and pop in the occasional 98 or blends

I was reading a paper linked on the adaptronic forums that talked about ethanol content and knock resistance - peak ignition timing for port injected engines is at about 40% ethanol content and additional ethanol doesn't benefit knock resistance. it was interesting reading as it means your fuel map needs to vary from 0% to 85% ethanol (to get mixtures right) but the ignition map probably only needs to vary between 0% and 40% ethanol content. (I say probably - I'm not a tuner!). So even blending maps may not produce a perfect result, although it would be conservative with the ignition timing on a partial blend which is a safe option.

quick question, I'm looking at adding an ethanol sensor to my Link G4 sometime before the end of the year. The wiring manual for the continental sensor shows a +14v output from the ECU to the sensor, but there is no such output of voltage from the ECU. I'm thinking this is just a power source from battery/ignition but obviously I don't want to fry the ECU so can anyone help me out.

I feel like this is maybe a silly question but oh well lol

yepp and connect the sensor up.. if you're really tight you can connect the output to a digital volt gauge to measure ethanol content.

0V = no ethanol

1V = 20%

2V = 40%

3V = 60%

4V = 80%

5V = 100% ethanol

Hmm.

But the sensors output a frequency, 50 to 125 hertz if I remember correctly.

The whole point of the zeitronix box is to convert that to a voltage. If you didn't need it why would people buy it?

Edited by Ben C34

Got a link to the thread mate?

Can't find it on adaptronic forums, i think it was one of the discussions on flex fuel. Here's the actual paper though (see link down the bottom to PDF):

http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/69496

Your correct, use a +14v ignition switched supply.

Thanks

I figured as much, the wiring drawing just confused me because it shows a 14v supply straight from the ECU. Figured that must have been just a switched power supply, but wasn't real keen to blow up the ECU so had to ask lol

Thanks

I figured as much, the wiring drawing just confused me because it shows a 14v supply straight from the ECU. Figured that must have been just a switched power supply, but wasn't real keen to blow up the ECU so had to ask lol

you got a diagram of that mate?

also anyone know where to buy the sensor plug?

I have sensor here but not sure how to wire it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...