Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Amon please PM me the brand of cat that failed.

I would like to know this too if you don't mind, I've used magnaflow 200c metal cats on two of my cars with no problems, and they're fairly cheap on the scale of cats.

While there may be issues passing emissions with a 100c cat, I'd much rather take my chances of "maybe/maybe not" passing a test, than certainly being screwed running no cat.

It was a magnaflow 100 cell 4 inch body cat, the cells were all folding over.

I know its not top line but they are very popular.

Would be keen to know of a proven one that can flow 400kw and not die..

Thought id post the brand up, not defaming, just stating my encounter

No idea, Im near positive it died at last track day though. Hot day, all running fairly hot, full boost regularly

Did you pull any timing out of it for the track day? I wonder if it is just a track day issue or tune issue around the area you drive on the track?

I have a metal cat so I am interested what leads to the failure on some of them as you describe.

I figure a lack of advance could lead to combustion continuing out of the exhaust valves and skyrocketing EGT's but it doesn't sound like it in your case.

Im near positive it died at last track day though

yeah I'd be extremely surprised if a cheap metal cat like magnaflow would stand up to the high temps and rigors of trackwork, think that would be asking alot of them. Street shouldn't be any isssue though. I'd be putting in a 3in race pipe during track use myself.

I know many who swear on SMB 4 and 5" http://www.smb.net.au/catalyticconverters.htm

Withstand hot rotarys

It would want to suck my cawk for that price. 3 times what I pay for a cat. lol.

  • Like 1

Any aftermarket car will be hard to pass EPA on 98, E85 would be easier as produces less NOx and other shit I don't know of lol.. I just I know it passes easily as my mate passed his 4G63T running E85 with a TD05, 272 cams, etc.. with DIY road tuning.

The reason I run a cat, is because I hate the smell of the exhaust, smells more pleasant with a cat lol

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/search/department/exhaust/part-type/catalytic-converters?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

So many cats... Even with shipping some are very reasonably priced. Why we pay so much over here is beyond me.

  • Like 1

What i ran for years without issues, even flaming exhaust so lots of unburnt fuel went through it.....

http://www.cateran.com.au/cateran/images/Racecatposter.pdf

Compared to a decat, i notice a slight power drop after 7800 rpm though to 9000 so not bad on the restriction side of things.

Only thing is the port for the temp probe is a diffrent thread so i dilled the old one out and welded my own nut to it.

I need to go for an emissions test to get my engineer cert and iv been told to get a euro 4 cat converter has anyone heard of these or what have people used to help pass epa? I'm running e85-90 2200 injectors 270 duration 10.5 lift ect.

Sorry for hijacking didn't want to start another thread

Euro 4 are the best for passing tests but also the most retrictive and the most expensive.

Most people use Euro 3 cats as they are far more affordable, add E85 to the mix and your sitting sweet.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-EURO3-Universal-Catalytic-converters-all-models-UNIVERSAL-FITMENT-/131059342207?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e83bedb7f

However if your runing a ECU, cams and aftermarket turbos, ive heard bad stories about the Full called in EPA tests, where they ask you to bend over and touch your toes while they put the rubber gloves on.....

If its not the full EPA test and just your engineer and he is approving your mods your OK.

Ive spoken to a a few kit car builds who have failed their engineers test for using high flow cats, but passed using the Euro 3 ones on petrol.

Edited by GTRPSI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...