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Yeah a proper front diff is amazing in conjunction with a rear one and the transfer.

Brilliant overall package.

Having my "time again", I'd put on -9s turbos ECU/Tune/Exhaust and then do the drivetrain - that's how good the gains are IMO from a driving point of view.

If you just daily drove your car, then maybe not as I did a lot of hillruns and stuff like that making use of it all

i wonder just how much modifying the nissan transfercase needs.

has any1 broken drive chains or stripped drive sprokets? or had the withdrawal lever deform?

ill be using all oem parts for my transfercase rebuild, appart from the N01 clutch pack.

anyone thoughts on other possible mods/improvements to components within the case?

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

It's very unlikely there were any modifications other than replacing any worn bearings and seals, and adding one or more additional plates for a quicker response. I'd be interested in specifics if something else was done.

The plate replacement is very similar to reshimming the standard diff in process, and is equally effective; there is nothing wrong with the factory design except they are all a bit worn out after 20 years.

  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

I have been told how good it is to do the modifications to the Trannie and as I will have the car in pieces I am doing it.

As Nismoid said,there must be more to it than adding a couple of plates

Has anyone any experience doing this mod and can explain it, I will need to have the trannie build for Dummies explanation :)

Its not the adding of plates.

Its the arrangement of them.

There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack,

Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below.....

Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI

Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI

You only need another old tranfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required.

You dont need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI

Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below.......

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/LSD%20Guide%20Final.pdf

  • Like 2

Good info GTRPSI - a question:

I have never had a transfer case apart - do the plates in the clutch pack have faces that wear? Is there any point in getting new plates or do you find the old plates generally or always serviceable?

Also another- I have heard that all transfer cases are not the same e.g. there is reliable info that the Stagea has 4 pucks pushing the clutch packs together while the GTR has 6.

But I have also heard tell that the R33 GTR transfer case is stronger than the R34 GTR - anyone able to confirm and say what the difference is?

My Mechanic said he would be putting new plates in the trannie and always does when doing a rebuild and adding extra plates.

Maybe just a business practice but I a happy to have all new plates while he is doing the build , seems the best way to go.

Think of the clutch pack like a motorbike wet clutch or LSD clutch pack, yes they have surfaces that wear on both sides of each plate.

You can pick and chose between 2 transfer case packs, pick different wear clutches to add or reduce the whole pack total thickness.

So if you have one slightly worn and the assebly total is a bit short you could use one or 2 with no wear inside the pack to compensate for the thickness missing on the thin one.

If they are all very worn you could add a extra plate to the mix.

Remember you need to get the snap ring that holds the whole assembly on to the drum so you cant go too thick on the assembly.

Picture of clutch pack plates in the external link below....

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/30-parts-sale/142604-gtr-transfer-case-clutch-pack.html

Diagram of workshop manual layout, you can see the plates laid out, outer and inner order.....(post 15)

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149088-cant-get-attessa-to-work-properly-in-r32-gtr-for-track-use/

Edit; Close up of the friction inner...

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165619-attesa-clutch-thickness.html

Obviously if its worn down through the friction base, its bin time....

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Although their boxes are smooth as silk, everything I've read and heard point to these AGY being a "circuit" box and not a "drag/hillilmb/dumbshit" box. I'm trying to get their synchro gear to go in my new box but it doesn't look promising :(

Hey ,

how it ended up with AG-Y ? Anyone know how to deal with them ?

Racepace offered us one already done for considerably less than that, id suggest picking up the phone and talking with them......(unsure if it was a one off built one ready to go that they wanted out the door though)

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