Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone here using Radium Engineering Oil Catch Can?

Their product is very popular over at FT-86 crowd, and my friend has one and seems very high quality as well.

Also this catch can size looks similar to the Nismo Catch Can style, which is what I want for having a stealthier looking engine bay.

post-112082-0-92504000-1400515841_thumb.jpeg

Edited by etang789
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443367-radium-engineering-oil-catch-can/
Share on other sites

Just had a look on their website (radiumauto.com). USD$165 for the single universal as pictured above. 6 fl.oz capacity (175mL?).

They like much better quality than most I've been looking at. I'm seriously tempted. Good find.

Just had a look on their website (radiumauto.com). USD$165 for the single universal as pictured above. 6 fl.oz capacity (175mL?).

They like much better quality than most I've been looking at. I'm seriously tempted. Good find.

Yea you can also get the Competition Catch Can with more capacity but not sure if it can fit where Nismo locate theirs.

Here is an article review

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/2449/PageID/4428/Company-Profile--Radium-Engineering.aspx

Edited by etang789
  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the picture of the Nismo Oil Catch Can which I think is the ideal location for a catch can.

BTW is the RB26 valve cover breather hose size 22mm ? Not sure which fittings to get...

post-112082-0-91130600-1401801390_thumb.jpg

Edited by etang789
  • 4 years later...

Found someone using Radium Engineering Oil Catch Can with RB26 . Not a GTR thou... http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/1802-1984-nissan-skyline-2000-rs-x-dr30-the-last-straw/

Nice and short routing like what I had in mind, just like the Nismo Catch Can.

1984-nissan-skyline-2000-rs-x-rb26dett-swap.jpg

1984-nissan-skyline-2000-rs-x-radium-twin-oil-catch-cans.jpg

IMG_1312-768x576.jpg

Edited by etang789
  • Like 1

Those things look pretty, but the size makes me question how functional they're likely to be on a high revving, highly boosted RB.  I'd be thinking they will take about 300ml combined and then dump whatever else gets spat out straight into the inlet tract.

They do look nice however.

  • Like 1

Generally for motorsport you need to have a catch can which has more volume then your engine displacement, aka 3L ones for Rb's or like 20 of these?

Personally i'd say you can't go past a good custom battery tray replacement one with proper baffles/foam, and a sump breather. Or if you really want something off the shelf then a hioctane style one at least though volume may not be enough

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

Generally for motorsport you need to have a catch can which has more volume then your engine displacement, aka 3L ones for Rb's or like 20 of these?

Personally i'd say you can't go past a good custom battery tray replacement one with proper baffles/foam, and a sump breather. Or if you really want something off the shelf then a hioctane style one at least though volume may not be enough

Agreed. Nothing really good off the shelf. Custom is the way to go.

  • Like 1

And for CAMS sanctioned motorsport at least, unless it is set up as an oil separator returning to the engine via PCV applied to one rocker breather and the bottom of the can to the other rather than a catch can (So manifold vacuum when off throttle draws oil back in via the breather)  any RB turbo will need at least 3L capacity. I am just about to build a new one for my HR31 and will be making it about 3.5L with an oil return to the sump and a proper filter on the outlet, one track I run at makes the 20DET hoist a lot of oil out. Hard braking followed by a very hard right hander and immediate full power twice in a lap, it spits out up to 500ml in a handful of laps, take it to Phillip Island and it did not put that much in the can over 500KM.

You are not particularly likely to get pinned for it being to small at most  track days but who needs to give a grumpy scrutineer something easy to knock you back for.

I use two of these  with the bottom cut off sitting inside a tank with fuel tank foam.

61740_x600.jpg

the base of the tank has a ball valve on it so at the track I can leave it open to drain to sump and all other times it just collects in the tank and I clean it before a track day because it gets sludgy due to moisture over time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...