Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

240/260Z flares.

There is a bit of judicious cutting/bending/folding, mainly to ensure adequate tyre to guard clearance.

The fronts actually took more work to get right so that nothing rubbed/bound with the steer tyres on full bump and full lock.

Otherwise it is straightforward, same as fitting to any rally car.

It's funny seeing the bodywork being attacked with tin snips and cutting disc and a hammer.

Edited by Dale FZ1
  • Like 1

Awesome work. Not enough of of us build GTS-T's for serious track work.

I also found cooling an initial problem, we decided that a cold air feed to the pod was less important than air to the radiator. The Koyorad was the best bang for buck cooling coin spent along with a radiator air guide. just make one out of aluminium instead of spend $100 or $200.

Subscribed to thread.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Preparations for the next event are done.

Brake pads replaced, using Winmax W7 front, W3 rear. The R33 is a nose heavy pig, will see how these things go for braking efficiency and impact on the rotors.

Couple of pictures showing ducting for intercooler/radiator, oil cooler, and power steering cooler.

Pictures don't show how the air exits.

post-19642-0-52371800-1409224297_thumb.jpg

post-19642-0-47083500-1409224329_thumb.jpg

Undertrays/splitters have been subject of a bit of recent discussion. This is my effort, using composite signboard. Not terribly heavy material, and has a fair bit of stiffness for self-support. It's a 2 piece job, rear section extends from the crossmember forward to roughly near the radius rod chassis mount. The front section is bonded to the glass bumper, and then held together with M6 fasteners. Pretty simple and it doesn't flop about once installed.

post-19642-0-48446200-1409224700_thumb.jpg

post-19642-0-35591700-1409224722_thumb.jpg

Couldn't do without door cards. Sheet aluminium with some stiffening reliefs rolled in, and a pull-handle made from nylon webbing. M5 retainers for this.

Nice work, I am being checky here, but do you the measurements or template and details for making these door cards? If so are you willing to share? This is perfect for my car.

Looks really good dale, good to see another gtst being done. Nice to see some pics of the undertray too looks very good.

Just a question about qld laws on half cages. I have a cams approved bolt in rear half cage in my currently unregistered track 32. Sometimes I think or re registering it just so I can drive it to and from the track. It's not mod plated for the cage, do you know or can u summarise the current laws on cages or rops.

Thanks mick

Michael - results shortly.

Shaun - Door cards fabrication work by MR Sheetmetal. I'll PM you to put you in touch with them.

Mick - Sorry no I can't give any great discourse on ROPS legalities in Queensland. I can PM you details of a fabrication business that knows this stuff inside and out.

Ok, a few comments/experiences on how this thing is going.

MCA shocks are brilliant gear. There is a bit of experimenting with spring rates and the current ones helped with good initial turn-in but it had horrid mid and exit understeer especially on tight corners. Hardening up the rear shocks pretty much cleaned up that issue. Highly recommend these, and the support available is exceptional.

Winmax pads are worth the money. Very powerful improvement to stock R33 brakes and I can't see the need to shift away from standard spec calipers and rotors. They do not drop off in efficiency with heavy/hard/prolonged use. They do need to be run at higher temps to work most efficiently and predictably. Warm up lap really requires a focused effort on cranking some heat into the brakes, and then they are the best brakes I've experienced.

The cooling system setup works. ECU datalogs showed coolant temps running between 88-94 degrees. Ambient temps around 25 degrees. Oil cooler does its job, oil temps running at 110 degrees.

No complaints at this stage about the budget turbo/manifold setup. Does its job, makes enough stick and responds well and predictably in the rpm range it's being run. Probably safe to say this is severe duty application, going to be interesting to see how they survive. I'm quietly confident in them.

Driving talent is the weakest link in the chain when chasing consistent speed, but it's a ton of fun to drive. Datalogs don't lie about how often and how long it's actually getting 100% throttle.

One thing is for sure, these 2wd chassis are not a bad thing for the average punter - provided you don't have delusions of championship or outright potential.

Nigel - for this event we used 14kg front, 5 kg rear. I'm interested to hear your experiences on how Winmax W7 front and rear worked out, and if you needed to do anything to get the best out of them. Application is a big factor, so I'm figuring choices would be different for a hillclimb setup compared to 20 minute sessions. Might get a thread started just for this topic.

Adam - PM sent. Suggest any queries direct to MR Sheetmetal. Quality work.

Christian - :cheers: but it is just another 33 barge and they look much the same.

Edited by Dale FZ1

Heat impact on engine bay componentry raised its head, with convoluted conduit for the loom melting, so it was addressed before the last meeting. Exhaust lagging and ceramic coating the turbine and manifold obviously was not enough.

Underbonnet paint showed a bit of discolouration, so it got a square of adhesive composite mat, with silver foil top section.

The loom got a split/adhesive composite insulating material. Slips over the length of loom and then silver adhesive tape seals the join and keeps it on.

The product wasn't especially expensive, and appears to do its job. Pics aren't the best but show the general idea. The ACL heat shield material is brilliant stuff around the dump/wastegate section too.

post-19642-0-33601800-1409728437_thumb.jpg

post-19642-0-08273300-1409728459_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...