Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm putting coilovers on my GTT and the bolt that goes on the bottom of them is wedged tight. I'm stuck on the right rear bolt. I've tried hitting spanner with a hammer, went through a can of WD-40 and even tried jacking up my ratchet to free it (rip ratchet). Does anyone have any tricks to free it? Also I can't heat it up because of rubber bushing. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Pic of the bastard post-135000-0-08519200-1412002595_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449176-how-to-remove-this-fng-bolt/
Share on other sites

You need a power bar - lucky you haven't stuffed your ratchet. Then you can slip a length of pipe over the handle of the power bar for more leverage. Can't see my car for reference atm but is there a nut on the other side you could try?

Also give the bolt a couple of good blows with a hammer to try to break the bond. Not so many that you deform the head.

Get some loctite freeze and release and spray it with that will help the get power bar with pipe and and you will get it off or easier option if you have a rattle gun.

Edited by boostn0199

Big breaker bars work to a point....then usually something breaks. If you work on cars you should really have a strong impact gun (not a cheapo). The impacting motion helps to break nuts loose more than just constant torque.

  • Like 1

There's a bit of metal in the way of the nut on the other side so I can't slip my spanner over it. I'll try the power bar and loctite freeze. Not too keen on buying a rattle gun as id blew the bank on coilovers but if that doesn't work I'll have to as the bolts starting to strip. Cheers for the help guys and I'll let you know how it goes.

I busted my ratchet doing it with the hydraulic jack haha. I finally got the rear bolts off using the bar but now I'm stuck on the front ones. There's not much space to use the bar between the rotors and fenders. Has anyone changed suspension before and if so could you tell me how you removed the front bolts ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...