Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm putting coilovers on my GTT and the bolt that goes on the bottom of them is wedged tight. I'm stuck on the right rear bolt. I've tried hitting spanner with a hammer, went through a can of WD-40 and even tried jacking up my ratchet to free it (rip ratchet). Does anyone have any tricks to free it? Also I can't heat it up because of rubber bushing. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Pic of the bastard post-135000-0-08519200-1412002595_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449176-how-to-remove-this-fng-bolt/
Share on other sites

You need a power bar - lucky you haven't stuffed your ratchet. Then you can slip a length of pipe over the handle of the power bar for more leverage. Can't see my car for reference atm but is there a nut on the other side you could try?

Also give the bolt a couple of good blows with a hammer to try to break the bond. Not so many that you deform the head.

Get some loctite freeze and release and spray it with that will help the get power bar with pipe and and you will get it off or easier option if you have a rattle gun.

Edited by boostn0199

Big breaker bars work to a point....then usually something breaks. If you work on cars you should really have a strong impact gun (not a cheapo). The impacting motion helps to break nuts loose more than just constant torque.

  • Like 1

There's a bit of metal in the way of the nut on the other side so I can't slip my spanner over it. I'll try the power bar and loctite freeze. Not too keen on buying a rattle gun as id blew the bank on coilovers but if that doesn't work I'll have to as the bolts starting to strip. Cheers for the help guys and I'll let you know how it goes.

I busted my ratchet doing it with the hydraulic jack haha. I finally got the rear bolts off using the bar but now I'm stuck on the front ones. There's not much space to use the bar between the rotors and fenders. Has anyone changed suspension before and if so could you tell me how you removed the front bolts ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...