Jump to content
SAU Community

Spares For Motorsport

JimmyRickard
 Share

Recommended Posts

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

I want to build up a solid set of spare parts for the GTR as it's only being used for track duties and the parts on it will be getting tired.

What should I be on the lookout for when a GTR is being parted out etc.?

The gearbox and diff have just been reco'd and I'm on the lookout for a spare engine, but what are some other parts that will need to be replaced regularly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449974-spares-for-motorsport/
Share on other sites
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

As in parts from a wreck?



I don't thing much in the way of consumables will be reclaimable from a wrecked GTR to be honest. Most of the stuff you consume: tyres, brakes, tyres, bushes, tyres, pads, tyres etc you need to buy new.



I would think spare rims (so you can make sure you use up all your tyres) would be the most helpful if you are doing a lot of track work.


Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Agree there is little to keep from a wreck. I'd grab 4 hubs and all the control arms/castor rods, attessa pump/accumulator, ps pump and steering rack (reco it) but that is about all. Sadly panels can be handy like bonnet, guards, front bumper, bov return pipe, bumper reo but they are often missing or stuffed in a wreck or half cut anyway

For close race meets I take the short spares list: old but usable pads and rotors front and rear, oils and fluids.

For longer trips I take more stuff (a bit random) but based on stuff I've broken before like castor rods, spare bushes

And in the garage I have or am collecting engine, gearbox, diffs, subframes, attessa pumps, clutch/flywheel

But most importantly I regularly check and swap stuff over between meets; recently replaced the steering rack, tailshaft centre bearing, front rotors, subframe bushes, engine belts, coil packs, ignitor. Shortly need to redo all the rear bushes too.

And then call Pete if you get stuck :)

  • 1 month later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

nasty.

I learned 1 more thing I should carry around, a spare FPR....looks like mine is dying slowly, luckily it was running way lean at idle but was OK on boost as the pressure rose. Lucky outcome because the other way around would have been an engine killer.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Neil Grand Master

Neil

Posted
Posted

And Evo, so when the Gtr breaks you've got a car to use for the rest of the day that won't break

Don't be deceived by this evil Evo talk Fatz,,,we all know GTR's spin bearings and their owners know it's going to happen sooner or later.

The evo boys just dump a load of oil all over the track and quickly trailer it back into the workshop for another rebuild. They just don't want to admit it.

Cheers

Neil.

toppertee Collaborator

toppertee

Posted
Posted (edited)

Don't be deceived by this evil Evo talk Fatz,,,we all know GTR's spin bearings and their owners know it's going to happen sooner or later.

The evo boys just dump a load of oil all over the track and quickly trailer it back into the workshop for another rebuild. They just don't want to admit it.

Cheers

Neil.

I also find they, put them into the wall, when the computer says no....

Edited by toppertee
Scott Black Rising Star

Scott Black

Posted
Posted

We have one at our workshop alot, sees more shop time than track time, only makes about 300 awkw, been in for diffs multiple times, transfer case, one gearbox, 3 turbos, manifold, exhaust, clutch, normally he's lucky enough to be able to drive it onto the trailer when the car shits itself, so it doesn't look as dramatic as a skyline fail. Yet they have there fair share of issues

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...