Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better fuel economy, because better torque.

You don't have to ring it's neck now.

On a road trip to Adelaide, I was getting the same economy as a 34gtt.

They said the motor had plenty of work on the Dyno and was driven around for a couple of days. The limiter was on and I drove it the same as usual on the way back, well not exactly, 5000rpm limit and no boost :)

Even without the final tune it was much better, especially on the twisty bush road were torque helps. I know blokes say it is only a gear change away (or 2 ), but

Totally different car to drive, I think I will get rid of the next 1000Klms very quickly and final tune done :)

Good news Pete glad to hear its sounding promising!!

So does the off boost driving satify you/compete with the TT VQ motor?

Yeah it seemed forever

I do not think it is as good as the TT350GT with the run in tune , 3.5 Lts, newer type motor and toss in a couple of turbos, different car, but after the tune, cams dialed in for response, with the limiter on 7500 - 8000rpm, I would put my money on the 34 :)

But the main difference for me is, I like to drive the R as the GT was an Auto and I got sick of no stick :cool:

I think I have to qualify what I have said as best I can :/

Both cars from idle ( no launch) to 4000rpms the 350 would beat the 34, the 34 has a motor that is has not had the final tune and I have no real idea what difference it will make to the response. But if the run in tune is a guide it should be pretty good.

The 34 with the final tune, approximate 100awkw extra with a bit more response, it would be interesting from idle.

Congrats on getting it back on the road

Thanks Daz

yeah good to be driving it again, now have to get the Klms done and tune it up and see what the sucker will do :)

  • Like 1

Should be done by Tuesday afternoon.

Chop chop!

Going to try for the Easter school holidays and stay a few days in Sydney.

If they can do it around that time we might be able to meet up after the tune and get your opinion on how it goes :/

They said most of the work needed was done on the Dyno , he said he likes about 1500Klms the motor before the final tune. Said to just drive it as normal but has set the limiter to 5000. Not sure how this works as they take it to 8000 on the Dyno.

They changed the oil after the run in, I have to keep an eye on the water and oil levels for a while, no problems after 400Klms :)

Took it for a run this morning, very smooth but needs the final tune to get more going on down there and lift the limiter out to 80000 :)

Did a few tests on low speed 60 in 6th, no problem anywhere and the same with all of the higher gears, I would say 2 gears better even with the run in tune.

It will be interesting to see what or any difference after the final tune to the low RPMs driving, I am sure it will be mad past 3500

Took it for a run this morning, very smooth but needs the final tune to get more going on down there and lift the limiter out to 80000 :)

Did a few tests on low speed 60 in 6th, no problem anywhere and the same with all of the higher gears, I would say 2 gears better even with the run in tune.

It will be interesting to see what or any difference after the final tune to the low RPMs driving, I am sure it will be mad past 3500

that rev limit! :P

get off sau and drive it

Hi Dave, they said it was set at 5000rpm, I recon it kicks in at 4500rpm , so there is not much time as the turbo starts to work. It is not mad , just very linear from 0-100 ish

Piss off, went for 100klms before my daughter woke up this morning, no traffic , it was nice to drive this car now as is , after the final should be magic :)

I wouldn't expect much change to low revs power (below 3500) after the final tune realistically.

Glad to e proven wrong though

I also hope you are wrong and look forward to trying to prove it, lol

I was hoping for the thing to be spooled by 4000rpms after the tune. I was expecting it to be approximately a 800 to 1000rpms sooner than it was before the build using the same PT6262, but with the new OS Valves and the UE cams getting a bit more air in there , but that may be just wishful thinking :/

Good to see you have it back and hopefully I will get to see it when final tune is done, would be nice to compair side by side with my 3.0 34

It will improve a good amount when they start playing with cam timing, if there is something CRD do well its cam timing, I still use the settings they did on my 32 from 8 years ago and they should have learnt more since then

Dave was pointing out the rev limit is to be set to 80,000rpm :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...