Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Maaaaaan, its been such a long time since i drove the GTR i anger.
poor little ladys just been chilling in the shed with a couple of starts to wake her up. i feel bad 

but....

historic rego is coming around soon, being an 89 model i assume the 30 year mark is starting next yes=ar.
what do i need to do to get historic rego? pay a membership at any old club or?


also say hellow to my 2nd LandCruiser.... it has some GTR influence :P
 

IMG_20180618_214148_032.jpg

41758769_451405978701074_8873934489789661184_n.jpg

41849048_491133948027865_1509753318908362752_n.jpg

41721463_1354843077985283_6345840099967631360_n.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...
On 5/17/2022 at 9:31 PM, GH05T said:

forgot this thread was here 

And...........

What's happening with the car?

 

all good?

crashed?

Stolen?

Sold to buy drugs?

 

I think that's all the options.

 

 

  • 4 months later...
On 5/18/2022 at 9:57 PM, Ben C34 said:

And...........

What's happening with the car?

 

all good?

crashed?

Stolen?

Sold to buy drugs?

 

I think that's all the options.

 

 

actually i still have her.
just had the engine pulled out and refreshed, full major service, replaced everything, deleted hicas, spent bit stacks of cash.
soon to get new coilovers and do all the bushes. i want to have it drivable at any time and its been dormant for so long it needed to eat some money

 

279601988_5012497822130904_5140553665370799662_n.jpg

279882621_5012497818797571_1008860014252534166_n.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

yeah im going to be much ...happier and setteled driving it now i know the engine has no suprises . then having everything nice and tight and new in the geometry, steering suspension, then new tires, refresh brakes and then ill look forward to a future paint job. but yeah having a car that just drives correctly without the increased chance of lunching an engine.


i really should consider new turbos through................rinning stock 🙁

What's the end goal weekend cruiser/daily?

100% do all the bushes with whiteline rubber not other brands urethane. 

MCA are the way to go, yes more expensive but ride quality is better and support is great. Been running their x-r purples (current pro sports model) for 7 years no issues and do a lot of street and track driving. Even big 2800km roadtrips on shit roads it rides better than my 370z. 

I look at it this way takes say 4 months to save for cheaper ones then you don't like them then need to save for another 6 months to replace them with MCA. Better off waiting an extra month or 2.

  • Like 2

Definitely spend a little more on your suspension, even for a daily driver, or actually more so for a daily driver with less than perfectly flat roads you'll want something that handles well, but is also compliant when hitting pot holes and rough roads (basically every street and Hwy in NSW at the moment)

Also don't go too stiff with your bushings, and if possible avoid pillow ball joints for less NVH and longevity of your suspension 

For a street car/cruiser, you'll thank yourself in the end 

  • Like 2

I would suggest taking a look at Shockworks over MCA's

but same idea much better suspension can give you a nice comfy ride AND a firm track setup. Instead of just being lower and stiff like BC,HSD, ISC etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...