Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ya,

Since my engine is now built i was thinking of upgrading my drivetrain.

I can pickup a brand new Nismo Conversion kit of the R32 to the 6spd R34 Getrag.

This kit includes

1) Getrag 6spd

2) Transfer case

3) Twin plate nismo super coppermix clutch

4) Front prop shaft

5) Cross member

6) Shift knob.

I can get this for about $8000 USD and the thing I like is it will have 0 km's on them.

What is everyones thoughts? Im thinking eventually I will need a new clutch (not required yet) and my transfer case is 25 years old and my gear box as well. So if I rebuild/strengthen these I am looking at not much more for the getrag.

Also I have heard the 4.111 ratios of the r32 and the 6spd make for abit of fun?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453782-r32-gtr-getrag-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

or you could try to get a AG-Y tranny, their strenghtening SS690 box is going for 200k yen. Transfer case from AG-Y is another 80k. Add 2k for anothe rbran dnew clutch if you wish. youre at 5000k yen ( which is about 3.5us I believe right?) Your still paying about 3-4k more for this mod. I believe both box would be of same strenght, so you decide if the ratio/6speed is worh that extra money.

  • 1 month later...

no idea, but you dont hear of many breaking. alot of the Japan wangan warriors i.e. 700hp+ 34 GTRs all appear to run the standard box.

locally mercury Motorsport had one in their R34 GTR until going to a OS88 i am fairly certain they changed this out due to wanting to go to sequential not due to a breakage it at 800+hp

i have personally been running one in my 740whp 32 GTR for 3 months now, doing a few track days, racewars and general driving in that time with no issues.

only issues i have found is a total lack of traction in 1st gear so need to do 2nd gear launches to get the best out of it.

Also due to the gears being closer together it is common to miss a gear i.e. go from 2nd to 5th as oppose to 3rd, But i guess that comes down to getting used to the box and being a better driver.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...