Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you don't mind high mount for the EFRs then just buy their twin kit :thumbsup:

Me, I'd prefer the stock manifolds and to have the turbs in the factory location :)

Can even use your factory style front pipes with the EFR kit. The full race dumps bolt upto it.

But looks like a disaster under the bonnet

Hi guys, so picked up the HPI dump pipes today. Spoke to the seller and he said the dump pipes should connect to my existing nismo weldina dual 2.5 inch exhaust as the flanges are the same size. I thought the HPI dumps are 3 inch and won't work with my existing exhaust. To cut the story short, I won't have the budget to get the new dual 3 inch exhaust until later this year, my questions is will the dump fit onto the nismo exhaust and is it worth doing it now or wait for the new exhaust and install it all together?

Personally I don't find the standard system that hard to work on, there are a number of people here who have seen me get the turbos off in 2 hours

:O

If your stock dump pipes fit then something tells me that the hpi ones will aswell

I think he means there is going to be a lip going from the 3 inch internal diameter dumps to the 2.5 inch front pipes.

Just do it all at once. Bugger doing stuff multiple times.

Personally I don't find the standard system that hard to work on, there are a number of people here who have seen me get the turbos off in 2 hours

can i pay you 2 hours labor next time i need mine swapped?

lol, well it still a bargain even if its a half job??

id then have the option to purchase the re install or

i could now afford to tow it and finish it off myself having saved a fortune and not slicing the f@#k out of my baseball mit hands that fit nowhere.

so for the record im still keen

can i pay you 2 hours labor next time i need mine swapped?

yep sure thing! one question tho, how do you intend to get it out of my driveway with making a mess? Cause I won't be shy to charge cleaning fees

yep sure thing! one question tho, how do you intend to get it out of my driveway with making a mess? Cause I won't be shy to charge cleaning fees

Ready yourself.

The PMs are coming

:D

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, quick update. Took the pods off and changed back to airbox and took it for a few runs (taking piggaz's advice). Couldn't really tell if there are any improvements with lag, feels about the same. It's alot quieter though so I'll leave them on for a bit and see. What I did notice is that after the first run I left the car idling for a few mins, then going for another run it felt slight loss in power. It seems that the R34 Gtr power is affected by under bonnet temperature. So perhaps the airbox is better when in stop/start traffic.

Will report back with next mods hopefully in a few weeks, just saving up a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...