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mines a BLITZ SBC-R DUAL Solenoid EBC - the car hadn't been modded since 2007 until i got it so these ebc's might be a little outdated

and the percentage being the solenoid duty makes much more sense haha

although im still not too sure how id want to set mine up,

so if i had the solenoid duty percentage turned up to 100 does that mean that the full boost would be controlled by the ebc VS say 50 or 0 percent where it would he half half or 0 being full stock control?

No, 100% would be the solenoid never opens, the wastegate actuator never sees pressure andbthe turbo will free boost until it runs out of puff, or R&R or go bang.

0% is solenoid fully open and boost pressure is controlled by wastegate only.

Assuming its similar to mine.

what would be the best way to set it up / control it or does it vary depending on the cars set up?

so far 0 has been the cleanest throughout the rev range, assuming thats because its controlled by the waste gate only but it feels like the cars lacking power

when on 40 % their is definitely a power increase but sounds like surging when i release the throttle and dont change gears otherwise when changing gears it will blow off fine

and their is the occasional boost spikes and sometimes cuts off ect

so im pretty hesitant to go any higher then 40% at the moment as i dont really know what im doing, hoping to get it dynod later this week by someone whos had some experience with GTRs and EBCs

found a leaky injector and vacuum leak this morning fixed them both and now the car is running mint, much more responsive and everything is functioning as it should.

i have the solenoid duty on the EBC turned up to 40 currently and its holding boost fine, stock blow offs sound pretty shit so wouldn't mind changing them in future.

also have a dyno session booked in for Thursday so that will give me some power figures and get the tune right hopefully

IMG_5169_zpsdfo4kqas.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...

iphone quality for life haha,

ive had a couple of issues lately, firstly the original place i was going to get dynod messaged me on the day of just before i was about to drive 2 hours to their shop to let me know they they didnt have a dyno but for some reason forgot to mention that when i booked in a week before specifically saying i need a dyno, ditched them found a place a little closer to me for the following week but half way their blew a turbo (big bang and a huge cloud of black smoke out the exhaust, now car wont boost and theirs a rattle from inside the cat) getting the exhaust removed on Thursday to check it is the turbos and if i need anymore parts before i start ordering some goodies.

i only just fund out that i shouldn't run more then 1 bar boost on the stock turbos and its been on 1.2 bar the whole time ive owned it plus the dodgy injectors had it surging and peaking to over 25 psi at times so that would have contributed to their wear i guess.

so far the plan is to upgrade to

- Garrett GT2860R-7's (HKS GT-SS) or maybe -5's

- 550cc injectors

- 2 x Greedy type FV blow offs to replace the old stock ones

- might end up replacing the stock radiator and get a bigger front mount to as their on my list to do

if anyone has some insight on what parts would be a good option please feel free to suggest

  • 5 weeks later...

finally have all the replacement parts ready to go, ended up with


- Garrett GT2860R-7's with new gaskets and braided lines


- Bosch 1000cc Injectors


- Tomei Type-L fuel pressure regulator


- Billet Performance Fuel Rail


- 2 x Greedy type FV blow offs


- Apexi front split pipe


as well as


- torque splitter


- hicas lock bar


- roof lip



IMG_5306_zpsaukgg5kr.jpg


  • Like 2

well considering i was having issues with the stock 25 year old injectors and one was pissing fuel over the engine i thought i would be wise to upgrade and why not go for 1000cc instead of the 550cc ones when the price difference is not much more and they will be one of the things that max out later if i go for bigger figures? plus all the other fuel bits came as a package that was not much more then buying the injectors alone.

whats wrong with the blow offs? the stock ones are 25 years old and might have been failing so i dont see how these could be worse?

I have a theory that you match the injector size to the power output - because the more oversize the injector is the harder it is to tune. But other people think otherwise.



As for the Nissan blow off valves they are as good as you'll ever need. What makes you think they might be failing? Also if the GReddy ones vent to atmosphere they are going to upset your MAF's on the assumption you are using them.


Edited by djr81

the mechanic that i have tuning it mentioned that they may have been part of my previous issues when i had it with him last, can you give me a legit reason why not to run the new blow offs besides the nissan ones are fine, i wouldn't mind a different sound as well.

and the plan with the tune once all this was installed is to try crack 400hp and go till afms or fuel pump maxs and then back it off a bit, if i went 550cc then they might have maxed first

mines a BLITZ SBC-R DUAL Solenoid EBC - the car hadn't been modded since 2007 until i got it so these ebc's might be a little outdated

and the percentage being the solenoid duty makes much more sense haha

although im still not too sure how id want to set mine up,

so if i had the solenoid duty percentage turned up to 100 does that mean that the full boost would be controlled by the ebc VS say 50 or 0 percent where it would he half half or 0 being full stock control?

There are two settings on the boost controller. The output (so boost level) and the gain. The gain is adjusted differently to the output but is inversely related to it - so high boost, less gain is the rule of thumb if I remember correctly.

See here.

http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsupport/pdf/sbc_i-d_iii.pdf

the mechanic that i have tuning it mentioned that they may have been part of my previous issues when i had it with him last, can you give me a legit reason why not to run the new blow offs besides the nissan ones are fine, i wouldn't mind a different sound as well.

and the plan with the tune once all this was installed is to try crack 400hp and go till afms or fuel pump maxs and then back it off a bit, if i went 550cc then they might have maxed first

Well if its for a different sound or whatever then I suppose why not but its usually more money spent for no performance gain. What issue does your mechanic think relates to the bov's - its not clear in the posts.

You will max your afms next I would think.

he said it may have been constantly recirculating or something but that was when we weren't 100% sure if i had blow a turbo or not, the money has already been spent and im not sweating it so i dont see why i wouldn't use them, plus its just one less 25 year old part on the car that could fail with age, thats how i look at it.

and yeah they probably will, can you remember off the top of your head where gtr afms max out? and any idea where a 255 lph pump would max

the mechanic that i have tuning it mentioned that they may have been part of my previous issues when i had it with him last, can you give me a legit reason why not to run the new blow offs besides the nissan ones are fine, i wouldn't mind a different sound as well.

the fact that we have all seen many Gtr make well over 400kw at the wheels with the factory blow off valves is a pretty good reason to not waste your money replacing them

Can your "mechanic" prove they are leaking or taking a stab in the dark and spending your money in the process?

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