Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i have a slightly new plan after calling up some tuners and having a chat,

going to run a haltech instead of microtech swap out the manual boost control for an electronic duel stage get the new mafless tune and just got for a single 044 intank fuel pump because i dont really need the full fuel set up for a streeter,

now just need to save the pennies!

figured out one of my AFM's is acting up and thats whats messing with the tune so im just geting another pair to wack in and get the car running mint again for the mean time while i save,

also noticed a bit of oil in the intake piping is there a reason to worry? previously had a catch can set up but removed it

IMG_6644_zpsptdac6f6.jpg

IMG_6645_zpsgoqxv8q3.jpg

soo has anyone had their wiper washer bottle keep draining in less then a hour and not leak out of the bottle at all, im 99% sure theres no leaks out of the bottle pulled it out and tested it and put it back in and filled it up and can watch the water go down but not not a drop in the engine bay under the reservoir ?? so must have a leak in the line right? but i cant see any drops of water come out under the car so not sure if its worth getting too deep looking for it haha.

i might just do a relocation to the boot like this guy

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/washer-bottle-relocation-and.html

and run the rear wiper spray to the intercooler with all new lines throughout

  • 2 weeks later...

so im still chasing this little issue before i take it back for a tune, got some second hand AFMs cleaned them and put them in but still have the same issue, they are a lot closer in volts compared to the last pair so im assuming there good and its something else thats causing the miss when boost comes on around 4k maybe spark plugs?? as coil packs are less then 5000 ks old? will get in there in the next couple of days to have a look in the mean time can anyone think of what else could cause this, also just replaced the TPS

Cant help with the miss, but can offer the following.

When the afms get oily it is because the turbo sucks the blowby out of the cam covers, carrying oil with it. If you follow the breather line from the exhaust cam cover it finishes in the suction side of the rear turbo. There is a restrictor in the hose so the suction isn't too much and no one ever changes it when they put bigger turbos on the car.

The other thing that happens is when oil gets on the afm's they measure high. So you get a rich fuel mixture. What is the afr at 4000 rpm and did it change with the change/cleaning of afm's.

Lastly unless there is oil dripping out of the bovs when you leave the car parked you don't have a problem. Even if it does you may not have a problem.

at 4000 rpm the afms are on 2.0 volts, didnt test what they were on with the old afms because they were reading a difference in voltage even on idle so knew one was bad, and i cleaned these ones before putting them in so dont have a reading from before hand, and now the voltage is much closer only ever out by 0.1 V if that so im assuming these are good, and have never had oil dripping out of the bovs before either,

is there really much point in running a catch can set up or is the factory return set up fine?

  • 2 months later...

just gotta get 1 more afm and am just going to get the issue sorted, swap to z32s and a bigger fuel pump which should get to 400hp which will do for now, but first gotta pay rego in like 2 weeks and im now doing uni so my weekly funds from work have become a lot less so might take a month to get around to everything

yeah just for now because i want to get it running mint so it can at least be driven but will go haltech later once i have the money spare, need to sell one of my other cars

  • 10 months later...

Finally got my car back from my tuner after 7 MONTHS! LMFAO (shouldn't have told him im currently unlicensed and to take his time but on the other hand freed up garage space)

managed to acquire a few parts in this time as well

just put in BC BR Gold coilovers so i finally have some adjustability as well as camber arms all round

swapped out the craft square mirrors for some east bears

finally got some plates to match TKR32 - TommyKaira R32

Apexi exhaust 

R34 GTR Vspec II front seats (yet to go in)

Greddy Front brakes and Greddy 2 peice rotors  (yet to go in)

GFB G-Force II boost controller

Ended up going with a Microtech LT-16cbecause of the price difference and how much easier they are to tune time wise 

Ended up with 400HP at all four which isnt as high as i was after but it is a fairly safe tune with room to tweak with someone who knows GTRs better

Heres some pics with it pretty low and wide since its not getting driven much

IMG_4601_zpsagsgulhv.jpg

IMG_4635_zpsqbgafuje.jpg

IMG_4629_zpsd8baqqq6.jpg

IMG_4630_zpsoxopyhft.jpg

IMG_4619_zpsobzaxegf.jpg

IMG_4616_zpsf7nlqwpw.jpg

IMG_4621_zpspifrtaqv.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...