Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SET WHAT ?, I take it you are joking and pulling my leg ?

If not, Do a Pauline, please explain :/

You know that I know nothing much about modifying cars, only what I have been learning while on SAU. I know more now in 18 months than I ever knew about cars and that is not a lot.

Up until now, I just buy them, drive them, brakes down someone fixes them, it was easy, only had to have the NRMA card with you :)

Sorry Pete, I'm referring to the nitrous setup you should have on the car. Not some other random setting!

Sorry Pete, I'm referring to the nitrous setup you should have on the car. Not some other random setting!

See what I mean Ben, I know nothing :)

Get the same kick out of baked beens :/

  • Like 1

haha i was kidding about getting RIPS to build the engine...although they do a wicked job.

200hp shot of NOS. YES!

I think that 900NM is going to be a handful anyway.

I was seriously thinking of using RIPS and he was very helpful but as it turns out Sydney was too far :(

Have seen some of the motors CRD have done and they can be very strong.I think he specializes more in the upper range HP , but ?

Have a look on Piglets rebuild, there is a vid of Steve Ka's time attack runs at WTAC 2014, that would get the blood pumping to your low head, haha

If you didn't know but Jhh racing in Qld build great motors as well, just saying...

The motor is fine Ali, just a few touch ups and away we go.

You can see the boost drops off from 24psi @ 150kph to 18.5psi @ 250kph ish, at the 381.7kw mark, there is something wrong with this and it will be checked out and fixed.

I also think there is more to get down low from a different type tune :)

Going off the Dyno Graph, what do you think the KW would have been if it held the 24psi until the 7000rpm.

I maybe wrong and I'm no expert but I think you maybe at your limits of pump fuel, hopefully the e85 tune will give you what your chasing.

CRD build tuff cars and I've witnessed it in person last week. But I feel CRD did that tune for a reason, maybe ask the tuner the question?

Also what is your engine compression ratio?

sounds like your power hungry

You can still get a c63. Oh oh, saw a M6 today. That shit was hot, and sounds so good

If you are practicing to be a DH, you can stop, the Dux you are :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

I might be 100% wrong but I believe it should be better than it is.

So you think the boost should start tapering off at 5000 ish rpm with the mods I have ??

I maybe wrong and I'm no expert but I think you maybe at your limits of pump fuel, hopefully the e85 tune will give you what your chasing.

CRD build tuff cars and I've witnessed it in person last week. But I feel CRD did that tune for a reason, maybe ask the tuner the question?

Also what is your engine compression ratio?

You may be right about the pump fuel, but that does not mean it cannot be better down low, it is not much better than when it was a 2.6 apart from the torque until the turbo kicks in

I have always said that CRD builds tough motors and gets some big HP going.

I asked the question to them 4 days ago why the boost tapers off , I got nothing ?

Anyway, I will have it checked out and we will see what the problem is and fix it very soon. Maybe it will go better , maybe it won't ?????

But it is still fun to drive :)

Gets a massive single and complains about lagg...

Doinitwrong.

Just quietly my poor man's 2.6 made 320kw on pump with -7s..... Soon to be more with e85. Any man's guess as to what it will make... Guessing 350. Maybe more. I'd say the -7s will run out of puff at 350.

For people to say you need e85 for it to work properly should be shot. Unless it's a track build the idea of e85 is great but it's availability makes it mediocre at best. keep in mind I'm only flex tuning it because haltech and it was $200 more than setup on just 98. I will be running 98 most of the time.

If you are not happy with it now, pull the turbo off and go smaller and run less power. E85 will only bandaid the issue and not fix it.

  • Like 1

I just had a look at both of your dyno runs, old and new. If piggaz calculations are right they only revved it to about 7250rpm...

Interesting if that's correct? Once again I could be wrong I'm not good at maths

The 3.2l is no miracle worker.

You won't get n/a response doesn't matter what you do. You can't get linear torque nor power with an low compression rb at the power you want. It just won't happen.

As I have said previously your turbine is to small to make any significant power in excess of what you have now. To tell you the truth I recon CRD did a pretty good job trying to tune that turbo on your setup it must have been a nightmare.

In a nutshell, you either need to decide on higher power or better response, you can't have both.

People have been telling you this all along.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...