Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys - I recently got a Skyline crossover - variously known as a Skyline Crossover, 370GT or Infiniti EX37. Anyway, mine is a J50 (RWD) Japan 2009 model.

I have a couple of cheap OBD2 readers and while they plug in, they can't speak to the car, even with some of the Nissan specific android apps which claim to send a Japan Nissan init string to get some data.

I'd love it if anyone was able to supply details of what SPECIFIC hardware and software combos they have used to get codes out of their 2009(ish) Japan sourced 370GTs. I'm hoping not to spend hundreds of dollars on a consult 4 (and I can't decipher what version of Consult I might need for mine).

Given the price of a service locally (which comprises an engine oil change, oil filter change, inspection of other fluids and brakes, and a code read), I'm keen to get myself a method to read the computer as I'm comfortable with doing the rest of the mechanical work myself.

Links to exact items would be hugely appreciated!

Cheers - Neil G

Consult 3+ or higher is the safe approach. I paid about $1500 or so for mine from Ali Baba, which is an exact replica of the Consult 3+ and comes with the Nissan software. Works great and has been an invaluable tool for me given I once needed to reset my steering angle sensor as well as a few diagnostic trouble codes brought on by my remote starter module. It is only reliable on a Windows XP OS. It is unstable on Windows 7, so unless there's a release newer than v15.12 out there to be downloaded, that's the only downside.

Links etc can be found in another thread in this forum. I'm on a mobile and at work so I'll leave the searching to you.

  • Like 1

You specifically need one that can deal with CANBUS. There are a few about, but you need to be a bit lucky, but most of them won't display all the data you need. People have gotten them to work on V36s, but I am not sure what brand units they are. Hopefully they will see this thread.

  • Like 1

My 370GT is using a normal Garmin OBD2 dongle to talk to my sat nav for trip computer and error code reading etc... I was lead to belive that these later vehicles are basically Infiniti's and so conform to the international standards, and so do not need Nissan specific codes and software.

Obviously Consult clones are the go for any serious work, but just wanted to make you aware that this Garmin bluetooth global dongle works fine on my skyline.

  • Like 1

Not sure with the V36. Buy I just use nissandatascan with my V35. Doesn't do everything, but let's me read and reset ECU, ABS and SRS codes, display lots of data. Not sure about TCU as I have a 6MT. Can also do st-angle adjustment and idle air volume adjustments. Also does immo keys if you know the BCM pin.

Ahhhh. I had a look at NissanDataScan a while ago but it appears that NDS3 is very recent. I'll give that a go. I think between the BT OBD2 things I have one of them is likely to be supported.

Thanks heaps for the reminder. I promise to report back if I have success (or otherwise)

(Still keen for a specific recommendation of hardware - The Garmin datapoint is useful - I'm at work and will look tonight as to whether it's a generic device compatible with non Garmin apps)

Cheers - N

I use a consult3 clone too.

Bought from this seller on Aliexpress, $129US .

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-New-Arrival-Nissan-Consult-3-III-Professional-Diagnostic-Tool-Nissan-Consult-III-Support-Muli-language/1741187697.html

Very cheap and so far functions very well.

Cheers.

Edited by mycarhasposessedme
  • Like 1

^^ I have been looking at these, and wasn't sure if they can do all the consult3 functions or not. Does it let you communicate and work with with all systems like the real consult3 does? (ECU,BCM,TCU,SRS,ABS,etc)?

Being a complete novice with the consult 3 software & the fact that I have not used a genuine consult 3 I'm really not qualified to compare the two.

That said, from my limited use of the unit so far, it does appear to do what the genuine unit can do.

Read the modules, clear codes etc, which i have done with it..

Cheers.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a cheap ebay Bluetooth reader and it works really well. I use the Torque app.

I think I payed $25 delivered

But this is the third one I bought and the first one didn't work at all. Second one work only with the Fj Cruiser.

It is a hit and miss with the cheap ones.

Thanks for the reply. A friend went the icar3 with torque using iPhone. Works great. My head unit screen uses Bluetooth. I'm hoping to somehow to get it to display.

Stay tuned.

PS if you buy a used car and don't know the Bluetooth pin code? Try either 1234 or 0000.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...