Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally i would never go to pedders or any of those shops, i dont trust em, id only let the tuner touch my beast and 2 other businesses that have proved to be honest.  I got some MCA blues in mine, have a good reputation :happy:

Contrary to Angry's experience mine was great with pedders. I went to the ridgehaven store and they looked after me great.

I had Pedders lowered springs in my old 33 and very happy with them. a little lower than factory so looks good but still high enough to be legal and allow clearance for speedbumps.

Have used pedders and KYB shocks, happy with both.

Both my 33's have been daily drivers and only basic mods and no track time. (apart from the odd day at the drags)

I was pretty happy with what they did. I knew something was wrong so I took it to someone who could check and they gave me a sheet with all the actual values of results from testing and explained what meant what and what needed to be fixed. I didn't get them to do any work but fault diagnostics are fine. Using their info to find parts by myself now.

I bought a set of R33 suspension from a guy in NSW and installed them today. Wasn't as hard as I expected it to be. Its just a set of Pedders R33 shocks and lowered springs.

Before20160920_144648_zpsp7s22mpa.jpg

During

IMG_0774_zpstp71xsf8.jpg

After

20160920_211800_zpstkhurmyl.jpg

Good job man, looks great.

Was it stock springs already in there, looks a bit low to start with? could be just the pic i guess.

Have you noticed a big difference in the feel after the change? a lot stiffer, still ok on crappy adelaide roads?

On 9/24/2016 at 8:13 AM, Sklyn said:

Good job man, looks great.

Was it stock springs already in there, looks a bit low to start with? could be just the pic i guess.

Have you noticed a big difference in the feel after the change? a lot stiffer, still ok on crappy adelaide roads?

Cheers dude,

Yeah it was supposed to be stock springs but the was defs not stock height so dunno what was happening there.

In terms of comfort, im pretty happy. Its still bumpy but the bumps aren't as harsh which makes it nicer on a whole.

Im not debating whats next,
Sway bars, HICAS delete
Rest of exhaust (Currently catback)
Headunit, amp, speakers etc.

 

Nice work on the car thus far.

unless you are drifting the car or have a problem with it, i wouldn't bother with the HICAS delete, also the swaybars would be a down the track thing unless its a track car, id start with the stereo as at the end of the day, that's where you spend your time, followed by a new dump.

  • Like 1

My thoughts are in line with Coullsy.

Unless Hicas is failing i dont see a reason to remove it on a daily.

Though i have heard swaybars do make a noticeable difference, so it might help with the hills runs =)

 

Hey,

Cheers guys.

Yeah HICAS has not been playing up as such but the results of the suspension report show a tiny bit of play in front sway bars and rear HICAS, nothing noticeable while driving, or ive just gotten used to it.

Car audio is defs something I want to do, but I'm torn between a single din with gauges or a double din (want to give those cheap chinese android units a go). Gotta think about it.

Im working on another DIY project for the car atm, waiting for some parts to be shipped. Keen as to share with everyone "IF" it works....

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Its that time of the year again where everything's due for renewals...registration, roadside assist and the dreaded insurance renewal....:down:


Waiting on a few cheap parts to arrive for me to install. I say cheap...I mean cheaper looking at the big picture of things. Some of which I'm sure people will think are super pointless, calling it now :D

So over the weekend, I worked on getting both the mirrors to fold in automagically. Got it finally working, both mirrors are working!

The issue in my case was the worm gear mounted onto the motor shaft for left hand mirror had broken and therefore the shaft was turning without turning the gear itself. I ended up pulling the whole gear system apart, down to the final spring and roller ball bearings underneath the spring and re-lubricating everything, using Araldite to stick the gear onto the shaft and upon re-installation, all is working!

Over this weekend I did a couple of things.

Firstly, I installed a R34 side mount intercooler. It was a relatively easy install once you get the pipes off the cooler itself. Tiny bit of cutting of a tab on the bar which is not used for anything.

20161016_120903_zpscvutt1ow.jpg

Secondly, I properly installed the brackets and bolted the stock lip onto the car instead of the tape which was holding it up before. There are now 4 wing nuts holding the lip along with screws on the bottom and double sided tape on other parts.

20161015_200244_zpslz0cp2ax.jpg

20161016_131152_zpsojao5rff.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

I am currently working on some custom LED tail lights, just waiting for parts so keen on them to see what its like all finished.

Also, not a skyline but another car video we made. Have a look if you are interested. Feedback always welcome.

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Having a weird problem with the car which seems like its misfiring under max boost (13PSI). I have new coilpacks and new plugs and it is still doing it. Need to figure out what the issue is.

51 minutes ago, vxsr33 said:


How is your car hitting 13psi? I thought you had a 10psi r32 actuator?

Well I'm using the stock gauge which says its somewhere around the 650 mmHg mark so thats like 12.5-13PSI.

 

7 minutes ago, admS15 said:

What coilpacks and what plug gap?

Genuine Nissan OEM coilpacks were installed 1 year ago, brand new NGK copper plugs installed and gapped to 0.8mm.

Could it just be R&R?  You're still on factory ECU right? I know there's mixed results with max PSI acheivable on these things, but it's usually 14PSI range, with the intercooler upgrade, you could be flowing more air at the same PSI as before and maxing out the AFM (at a guess)

R32 actuator should not be getting you more than about 11 psi on its own. If you cant/dont have/want to install an aftermarket gauge you could plug into the OBD port and check on your phone. I have one if you want to catch up and give it a whirl. (Assuming its an OBD2 port which i think they are)

Was it doing it before the new plugs went in? Loose plug/connection maybe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...