Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anywhere but centreline

One sour experience, many moons ago = Never again. No one is allowed to use that workshop on your watch.

Good thing you never went to Rajab, or the last few years of RE Customs

Centerline.... Can't go wrong. Your side of town as well.

As far as Toyota boat specialist... 612 Autoworks is a garage business doing lots of crowns, cressidas and chasers.

my preference is to take it somewhere use to dealing with cars that aren't worth about 15% of the value of my car

Ie ya standard young 'enthusiast' shop

Edited by alr33x

my preference is to take it somewhere use to dealing with cars that aren't worth about 15% of the value of my car

Ie ya standard young 'enthusiast' shop

MaseratiOz forum is thata way --->
  • Like 1

One sour experience, many moons ago = Never again. No one is allowed to use that workshop on your watch.

Good thing you never went to Rajab, or the last few years of RE Customs

Should I reccomend a shop that tried to BLATANTLY rip me off, and also my mate just because they work on some old POS mazda race cars?

my preference is to take it somewhere use to dealing with cars that aren't worth about 15% of the value of my car

Ie ya standard young 'enthusiast' shop

So, as mentioned, go to centerline where they are used to working on race cars worth about 3 times as much your lexus

  • Like 1

Should I reccomend a shop that tried to BLATANTLY rip me off, and also my mate just because they work on some old POS mazda race cars?

Did good work on my pulsar a whole bunch of times and did a proper job with the Gloria.

Maybe they didn't like how you carry yourself. It's west side after all. Next to Hells Angels HQ

So, as mentioned, go to centerline where they are used to working on race cars worth about 3 times as much your lexus

Well Dezz said its shit so must be shit.

Shoulda known asked in the wrong place ere

Not worried about race cars etc but I've seen how the workers treat every car the same lexus, skyline, Audi, VL I'm not interested in those places

From what I've seen / experienced:

RTR = Low by a few percent

Racepace = Low by a few percent, and not an accurate torque figure (its calculated via road speed, with no tacho input)
Chasers = Fairly Accurate
Trent = High by approx 10%

Thats why when I had an RTR tune at 255rwkw I'd tell people "255, so about 270 on trents for comparison"

At the end of the day though, who gives a crap what the figures say... What you want is a Pre-Tune overlay on the final printout so you can see the difference in the shape / area under the curve.

And lots of people always seem to forget that when you roll out of the shop, if you're actually running the same tune / timing as your max power run then your car MAY last until the end of the week, or until a slightly suboptimal batch of fuel / hot day.

RacePace usually give you a max power run just for potential then dial it back for safety; pretty conservative tunes IMO

But most tuners who have been around a long time are these days, unless customer requests every last kw - it's not in their interests to have customer cars shattering pistons

My mates car with the same mods as mine made 297kw on 98 at chasers with mine beng 10k less at trents.

We threw it on the dyno at dr drift and the afr's were 14.5 and climbing at 4000rpm when we pulled the run

Chasers CAN be good, but if they dont know you.......

Did good work on my pulsar a whole bunch of times and did a proper job with the Gloria.

Maybe they didn't like how you carry yourself. It's west side after all. Next to Hells Angels HQ

That's great, you want to recommend them based on your experiences, I'll tell people not to go near them because of mine.

What kind of expert charges $X (overpriced at that) for a service, then tells that customer their setup is a mess, and asks who set it up... That's a quality workshop.

  • Like 1

Well Dezz said its shit so must be shit.

Shoulda known asked in the wrong place ere

Not worried about race cars etc but I've seen how the workers treat every car the same lexus, skyline, Audi, VL I'm not interested in those places

Hate to break it to you dude, but they ARE all the same...

Especially a toyota with an L badge

As I said centerline work on cars worth all sorts of coin including high end race cars with rediculous suspension setups

Not really all the same big difference jumping in a 20 year old Nissan with ya dirty clothes and a car with white leather

But anyway

An apprentice driving a 10k car or a 100k car

I don't see the same same approach myself, not to mention IF something goes wrong the shitty shops will probably not even pay to fix

Edited by alr33x

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...