Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

moh: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mercedes-Benz-S600-2000/SSE-AD-3391577/?Cr=15

do it. you're on movie star wages now, you can afford the maintenance. or just get some cousins to service/repair it. bags, wheels, mad exhaust. sorted.

alternatively: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mercedes-Benz-S500-2004/SSE-AD-3723158/?Cr=38

long wheel base, 5L V8, black. im surprised at how close to pricing they are with the L lexus'

lmao, id love to but thatd be a terrible decision.

this is coming from the guy that is also keeping an eye on that cheap black GTR too though.

moh gonna moh.

my dream car is an 85 magna

that was my 2nd car....such a shit heap..did have a stereo worth more than the car tho..(so like anything more than 5$)

85 subaru brumby

85 magna

85 celica..

notice a trend here...

the subaru and the celica were great...

magna a POS

wish I had kept the celica after the engine let go, would ahve been a great transplant for a 2JZ

The exes mother had one... I drove that sucker back from Kryal kastle after being awake all night......

The accelerator is as light as a feather and there is nowhere you can lean your foot...

I still remember the pain.

Alex will once he buys a new house with bigger garage. Pays cash monie

Leroy pls.... Alex is a toyota man now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...