Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, emts said:

Don;t call these guys Hackers, thats giving them way too much credit, it is script kiddies doing a Ddos via a zombie network. (if it was an attack)

 

It's that easy even Birds could do it.

http://www.symantec.com/connect/blogs/renting-zombie-farm-botnets-and-hacker-economy

 

the funny thing is load testing is a very similar process, get a whole bunch of boxes and start loading/posting data to the site. monitor.

 

What is interesting is that this might not actually be a DDos attack just a crappy scoping exercise.

so apparently they estimates the traffic at max 1 million users per hour, so the load testing at 150% would be 1.5 million users.
now lets say there around 10 million users submitting online.
I would guess around 1/2 would have sat down in the evening and gone ok Fk it lets do it.
so 5 million in 2ish hours or much more than they scoped.

they could have Ddosed themselves with legit traffic.

 

that also said doing it in the "cloud" is meant to mitigate this as they can just virtually throw more CPU's at it till traffic is gone. 

 

 

 

Exactly my thoughts, they essentially DDOSed themselfs, but they'll blame 'hackers' to hide their own incompetence and sweep it under the rug. 

37 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

That's the thing though, most dynos have *peak* torque at ... I dunno, 4k? Usually when the car hits full boost, middle of the range.

If you backed power off in that range, your torque would not look like that. Instead of being 620nm at 4k then bleeding off to 500, you could have it peak at 500 and stay at 500 the whole way through the rev range.

Look at most people's dyno sheets, the max power figure is not where the most torque is.

At least in my car having huge power at 4k only rips tyres anyway. I'd probably result in a car which is faster through being easy to drive, and won't smash gearboxes. I am aware that losing traction means driveline stress wouldn't happen anywhere near as bad, but usually 33 boxes die from stripping gears. Under load. Usually 3rd. Usually when cars are on full boost/torque and not losing traction anymore.

 

So my idea was simply to spread that out over the rev range instead of having it all come in hardcore when the turbo spools up.
Going a smaller turbo isn't an option for me, my car has the tendency to choke the living shit out of anything smaller than a GTX3582R. I had to run a GTX3076r with a limit of 5700rpm to avoid the car melting itself.

 

Ideally you'd just have a gearbox that can handle the torque. But rarely do we get exactly what we want in modding cars :P

So taking that idea one step further is to then set a specifi torque map in each gear, so as to not spin up tires in ow gear and stress on driveline..ie exactly what the new 488 is doing:

"To aid traction and allow the use of shorter, acceleration-enhancing gear ratios, each individual gear has its own torque map, the full 760Nm only available in seventh. "
http://www.motormag.com.au/reviews/1603/ferrari-488-review/

 

15 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

That's the thing though, most dynos have *peak* torque at ... I dunno, 4k? Usually when the car hits full boost, middle of the range.

If you backed power off in that range, your torque would not look like that. Instead of being 620nm at 4k then bleeding off to 500, you could have it peak at 500 and stay at 500 the whole way through the rev range.

Look at most people's dyno sheets, the max power figure is not where the most torque is.

At least in my car having huge power at 4k only rips tyres anyway. I'd probably result in a car which is faster through being easy to drive, and won't smash gearboxes. I am aware that losing traction means driveline stress wouldn't happen anywhere near as bad, but usually 33 boxes die from stripping gears. Under load. Usually 3rd. Usually when cars are on full boost/torque and not losing traction anymore.

 

So my idea was simply to spread that out over the rev range instead of having it all come in hardcore when the turbo spools up.
Going a smaller turbo isn't an option for me, my car has the tendency to choke the living shit out of anything smaller than a GTX3582R. I had to run a GTX3076r with a limit of 5700rpm to avoid the car melting itself.

 

Ideally you'd just have a gearbox that can handle the torque. But rarely do we get exactly what we want in modding cars :P

Yes that theory is sound if all you want to do is produce the kw figure without risking the gearbox. However, you're still tethering the performance of the engine...and not in the most efficient way. Something you'd be better off doing with a smaller turbo IMO and gaining the benefits of more response / less lag. Choking the turbo up top is simply the trade off for better performance down low - it sucks, but so does lag to some people. Don't take the engine speed that high; you don't have to when you're making full boost at 3000rpm. I choke mine at 6000rpm too, but by that speed in 2nd gear the drag race is usually over.

In an auto with traction issues it MAY make sense to manually restrict it, given you don't have the throttle control of a manual gearbox to control your wheelspin. But otherwise, all you're doing with a torque restriction is dyno queening. Given torque is a measure of rotational force and power is a measure of torque over time, you're removing the point of having a car that produces 400rwkw, save for dyno comps!

3 minutes ago, emts said:

So taking that idea one step further is to then set a specifi torque map in each gear, so as to not spin up tires in ow gear and stress on driveline..ie exactly what the new 488 is doing:

"To aid traction and allow the use of shorter, acceleration-enhancing gear ratios, each individual gear has its own torque map, the full 760Nm only available in seventh. "
http://www.motormag.com.au/reviews/1603/ferrari-488-review/

 

If Ferrari is doing it, it may actually be something that works..

2 minutes ago, Birds said:

Yes that theory is sound if all you want to do is produce the kw figure without risking the gearbox. However, you're still tethering the performance of the engine...and not in the most efficient way. Something you'd be better off doing with a smaller turbo IMO and gaining the benefits of more response / less lag. Choking the turbo up top is simply the trade off for better performance down low - it sucks, but so does lag to some people. Don't take the engine speed that high; you don't have to when you're making full boost at 3000rpm. I choke mine at 6000rpm too, but by that speed in 2nd gear the drag race is usually over.

In an auto with traction issues it MAY make sense to manually restrict it, given you don't have the throttle control of a manual gearbox to control your wheelspin. But otherwise, all you're doing with a torque restriction is dyno queening. Given torque is a measure of rotational force and power is a measure of torque over time, you're removing the point of having a car that produces 400rwkw, save for dyno comps!

Yes this would be a workaround where the gearbox isn't matched really for the engine. This is kind of an issue for skylines.
I don't think it would actually nerf the power, if I could choose to have my gtx3076r making less power (still 400 in a manual...) or a GTX3582 which I can rev out to 7500, the 3582 had a much meatier power band.

So even though the boost came on "later", I had more revs available to actually use it.

I mean choking in the way of 120KW of lost power in the 500rpm from 5700 to 6200. The concept however is quite sound and yes I agree, get a turbo that's just nosing over/making peak power realistically where you're going to be revving/using the engine every day of the week.

 

My throttle map/boost idea was only cause

a) I could (yay haltech)
b) I may need to with a 33gtst box
c) Traction means it isn't any slower.


End result would have it feel like a N/A engine and be extremely linear in power. I am fully aware that "more linear" really means "Less midrange" but if you're on the edge of grip at 75% throttle in the midrange anyway, there's no functional loss if you are 100% wot through that section and have your power more closely match what the tyre can actually keep in contact with the road.

And it may not explode the gearbox.
That said my auto has not exploded, and it has paddles to comfortably hold a gear anyway. Was just musing because the "GET A f**kING MANUAL" assaults me from all sides literally on a daily basis.

I think it'd be awful personally...like hitting a power brick wall. Pretty much how an 86 accelerates, but with a little lag to boot. Not lifting the bottom and top to be linear with the mid, but dragging the mid down. The opposite of converting to E85 haha. It might be alright in a circuit car where you're not concerning yourself with the first half of the rev range. Ultimately your car is still going to be quick, but I believe it can be quicker in more places with a smaller turbo. That said, I'm of the opinion that anything more than ~300rwkw in a GTS-T on street tyres is a waste, so I'm always going to push for smaller turbos.

The thing with a lack of traction is that it's better for the gearbox than grip. Grip is the resistance / inertia / holding the output shaft while engine tries to turn the cogs. Once grip frees up, the gearbox is safer (obviously sustained high RPM abuse will melt the bearings). Pretty much why AWD GTRs smash 3rd gear all the time in spite of it being internally much the same box as the GTS-T (grip and transfer case pressures). So as long as you're not putting that 400rwkw to the ground, I think you'd be alright with that box.

They had ballers on the Qantas inflight entertainment.

 

Started watching it..

 

kinda awkward when they come to serve you drinks and there full nudity and sex on the screen.

 

was good tho, preferred Entourage but its getting there.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...