Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah ive bought a USB to DB25 before, but you're right, I'll try a dedicated parallel one and see how it goes. I did a fair bit of reading up about simulating LPT port in hardware and its a proper broad minded person.

If I chose to tell boss to get stuffed and I buy laptop myself, will be through scorptec (range is very varied and dated laptops still full price) or a metabox (complete customisation + win7).

I've got an 88E buy order at 4.1c. Hoping it gets there. Also got a TV2 buy order at 0.6c, coz fuggit. though I'd like some spending money for Japan next month, dont want to have too much cash tied up in stuff.

I actually don't mind dells, provided you get the right models like the XPS13 decently specced etc. HPs are meh IMO. 

Currently use an Asus for work, as long as it's thin, light AF, and has enough decent ports I'm happy.
Only thing I don't like about my current laptop is no back lit keyboard for working in dark areas, oh and the charger cable could be a little bit longer. 

Some companies really cheap out on their laptop or computer situation then it just bites them in the ass later when they have problems or they're slow as

Edited by UNR33L

Absolutely love my Dell XPS15 (9550)
15" Screen with no bezel so its about the same size as a normal 14" laptop. Not too heavy unlike most with these specs. Current i7, 512GB SSD, 16GB Ram...

Was a bit flakey at the start with a screen which would randomly flicker black for a millisecond every minute or so, couldn't tell if I was going crazy or just blinking... but a firmware update fixed it up after a month or so

I actually need a hardy and practical laptop. Not some $2000 Suzy-stretch, flimsy, touch-screen POS.

So all those 2-in-1 ultrabooks or whatever, are out.

I'm tempted to just buy a machine myself, but I don't think boss would be too happy (I don't know why)

2 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I actually need a hardy and practical laptop. Not some $2000 Suzy-stretch, flimsy, touch-screen POS.

So all those 2-in-1 ultrabooks or whatever, are out.

I'm tempted to just buy a machine myself, but I don't think boss would be too happy (I don't know why)

Lol well ill let you know if the laptop disintegrates in my hands 

17 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I just cant see them lasting too long on site or getting moved constantly for 3+ years.

Apparently the thinkpad T series are durable?

Perhaps the T460s. That was another one of my options.

 

I got the x360 due to it being light, portable and touchscreen for client meetings. so probably different purposes to you.

They're all as flimsy as each other (basically) if you want to be rough on it you really only have a couple of options like the toughbook etc. 

Yes they look like shit & are expensive but if you plan on dropping it like the diesel mechanics I used to work with at CAT they're good 

220179-Panasonic-ToughBook-CF-31.jpg

We used to have normal Dell Latitudes for the diesel mechanics, would get them back every other day with broken screens or just generally f**ked, wasn't until a new policy where they'd have to pay repairs out of their own pocket that actually fixed it :) go figure. 

Same thing with phones.

Edited by UNR33L

Steer clear of Lenovo laptops, they are awful. Very flimsy plastic, keyboard and trackpad are unusable to get work done, screen quality is very blurry etc etc.

If you're in the $1k - $2k range I'd recommend something by Asus, above $2k I'd recommend the Microsoft Surface. That's for Windows laptops anyway, which still don't come close to a Macbook Pro in terms of overall build quality, reliability, screen quality and the best trackpad known to man.

On a side note, does anyone know if it's possible to change the spark plugs on an R34 GT-T without removing the breather pipe? I got to that stage but there are like 100 little pipes connecting to it making it quite annoying to remove. The pipes also look flimsy, so don't want to break anything.

On a side note, does anyone know if it's possible to change the spark plugs on an R34 GT-T without removing the breather pipe? I got to that stage but there are like 100 little pipes connecting to it making it quite annoying to remove. The pipes also look flimsy, so don't want to break anything.


You can but its a pain, i just remove and unplug it all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...