Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For what its worth, I went for a cruise last night with a mate and 2 of his friends that have never been in a Gtr , one, my mate, 350kw vl owner, one 290 kW clubby owner and one 320 kW evo VIII owner.

Went out for over 2 hours cruising and nothing really was said until we came back and got out of the car. Then unexpectedly all of them said, amongst all the other positive raves, that a Gtr is something special as a whole, amazing handling together with the howl of the rb together with poise and comfort and iconic nature of the car. The evo owner especially was blow away by the car and basically said that what makes it special is not measurable.

I was blown away with that response to the experience they had as it was unexpected and was quite proud to be a Gtr owner.

  • Like 1

evo 7 motors are quite weak compared to the evo 8 & 9...

Have owned an evo7 & 9, I would say the interior in the e9 is very nice with the leather recaro's. The only thing I didn't like was the 6sp

So I tried the evo 7 5sp with evo 8 motor and interior with 300kw that was fun and responsive but It was lacking the top end power I missed from the first gtr 33 I had.

So my last ever build now is bnr34!!!

  • Like 1

I've never owned a GTR, nor have I ever been in one. But I've had an EVO 7 with 235awkw and it was a fun expensive pig of a thing. It was my daily and it has got to be one of the worst dailys out there. Weekend car only.

# Poor turning circle

# Peanut sized fuel tank

# The Recaro's are extremely uncomfortable on your thighs

# Driving position was lacking, I felt way too high

Handed like it was on rails, brakes were excellent, gearbox was snick and precise. Gave you total confidence in the corners.

But in the end it didn't feel special at all, it felt like as Jeremy Clarkson would say 'it's just some car'

I owned a 33 GTST once upon a time before this, lo and behind I now drive a 33 GTST and it feels 100 x more special than the EVO ever did.

With that said, a GTR must feel a hell of a lot more special than a GTST so my vote is the GTR.

I think the question is flawed though. What does 'better car' mean? value/looks/performance/price/maintenance/responds to mods the best? See what I mean.

  • 3 weeks later...

Dash in evo they are very plastic all look the same through the range , recaros are very good,the gtr is getting old prob need rebuild could be a real money pit but built engine ,decent rims suspension they look mint clean ones will get collectable for sure, gtr everyday.

I must admit, I have done a couple of track days in the Evo and have failed to spin one bearing yet... :P

same

*touches wood*

But, my gtr did have about triple the power of a standard car.

Reckon I'd break my emo with triple the power on a track.

  • 3 weeks later...

had both. two totally different beasts in my opinion.

evo 7 was more comfy to drive daily but the gtr felt like a out and out sports car weapon...

evo newer so more comfort and mod cons etc. Gtr got the looks and more attention from people....

for me GTR just....... but all depends what you want.... im saving for a 34 gtr now, wont be saving ever for an evo X etc

had both. two totally different beasts in my opinion.

evo 7 was more comfy to drive daily but the gtr felt like a out and out sports car weapon...

evo newer so more comfort and mod cons etc. Gtr got the looks and more attention from people....

for me GTR just....... but all depends what you want.... im saving for a 34 gtr now, wont be saving ever for an evo X etc

Interesting, I found the opposite.

When I was buying a car in 2006 I test drove the evo VIII, sti, and clubby and found the evo the most uncomfortable. Not to say it wasn't an awesome car, as I think it was better than all of them from a performance viewpoint, but it was a bit to harsh and gittery for a comfortable daily.

I find my 33 a lot more compliant for a daily.

R32 GTR any day.

EVO's are for Gaylords that want to be fast.

They usually are till the GTR gets into second gear.

Yes Scotty, im having a dig at you. :nyaanyaa:

Interesting, I found the opposite.

When I was buying a car in 2006 I test drove the evo VIII, sti, and clubby and found the evo the most uncomfortable. Not to say it wasn't an awesome car, as I think it was better than all of them from a performance viewpoint, but it was a bit to harsh and gittery for a comfortable daily.

I find my 33 a lot more compliant for a daily.

Really? thats the opposite for me.

Found my gtr rougher, felt much older etc although the gtr was heavily modified where as the evo was near stockish....

the only thing i hated about the evo was the seats.... being 6'3 and 90 kilos the bolsters were very VERY tight

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...