Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Consumer (NZ) just tested HD dash cams. Prices ranged from $109 to $695 but none was considered good quality. It was not possible to read a number plate at more than 5 metres and less than that only if relative speeds of the cars were much the same.

Best of these was DOD LS460W ($250 - $300)

PS there are apparently some apps for your smart phone that wills do the job assuming you can get a suitable forward facing holder.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461330-dash-cams/#findComment-7658752
Share on other sites

Brother has the Navman one for $130, does a decent job. I bought the model up for about $170 because the cheaper one wasn't available -Its got a few nicer features but nothing worth writing home about.

Haven't had any problems with either of them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461330-dash-cams/#findComment-7659048
Share on other sites

I recently bought the kaiser baas r10+ on sale at super shit auto ATM for $98. 1080p records fairly decent picture quality. Considering all these cams are made in China or best case Korea, its hard to know what your getting. I think its a good idea to buy from a shop that u can return to, just in case. My 2c.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461330-dash-cams/#findComment-7659107
Share on other sites

I have a cheap ebay dash cam. Cost $40, and another $25 for a 32gb card. Does the job, records in 720, and will probably do if anything bad ever happens. Just be sure to hard wire it in to keep the ciggy lighter socket for anything else.

Small update, the eBay cheapie appears to have died from this awful Adelaide heat...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461330-dash-cams/#findComment-7659939
Share on other sites

Consumer (NZ) just tested HD dash cams. Prices ranged from $109 to $695 but none was considered good quality. It was not possible to read a number plate at more than 5 metres and less than that only if relative speeds of the cars were much the same.

Best of these was DOD LS460W ($250 - $300)

PS there are apparently some apps for your smart phone that wills do the job assuming you can get a suitable forward facing holder.

I had a close call yesterday where a motorcyclist cut in front of me without indicating and then had to emergency brake due to other cars ahead. I knew I couldn't stop in time so I swerved around the bike and missed it by only centimetres. It was oh so close. Bike rider deserved to be hit but that's another story.

When i got home and reviewed the footage on my PC I was able to make out the no. plates on the bike and of all the vehicles in my line of sight from the footage prior to and up to the point of the incident by pausing the footage frame by frame.

So although it is true that you can't clearly make out plates from more than 5 metres, there is a place for these cams and they can be very useful. On this occasion if I had hit the bike rider, the footage was clear enough to be used as evidence and would have clearly shown exactly what had happened and that I was cruising along minding my own business when some f#*kwit decided to just jump in front of me and get cleaned up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461330-dash-cams/#findComment-7659947
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...