Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice work with the diff I have been doing the same with mine. If you get time you should also consider changing every bolt to a zinc plate and powder coating the whole subframe. There are a few mods that you can do to the subframe to improve on traction.

Nice thread

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

I've been incredibly lazy with updating this and I'm sorry!

I've been up to a few things, like driving the car servicing it and installing my Nismo 1.5 Diff, see below, picture heavy as always!

Along with the diff i installed a new sub frame with fresh bushes and weld in reinforcement plates which makes the rear end feel much more stable.

Started by jacking up the car and dropping this big old slab of fun out of the back..

WaaYFsCl.jpg

I then unbolted all of the arms from the subframe, and carried them over to the new one and bolted them on.

ypUYAFpl.jpg

I left all the bolts on the hub side done up which saved a bit of time.

From there I filled up the diff with oil

WF8ATQbl.jpg

..and bolted up the ABS sensors

HWJEib7l.jpg

aaand finished up by bolting the biff in as well as the shafts

xFbDDQRl.jpg?1

This was the remainder:

6ImotDil.jpg

I then helped my mate install a turbo back exhaust on his R32. Of course the "bolt on" just-jap was 80mm too long and needed to be cut and shortened but it was a good laugh..

V5P3MUnl.jpg

All in all a pretty good day!
 

  • Like 3
On 6/9/2017 at 6:07 PM, Jordy32 said:

I then helped my mate install a turbo back exhaust on his R32. Of course the "bolt on" just-jap was 80mm too long and needed to be cut and shortened but it was a good laugh..

V5P3MUnl.jpg

All in all a pretty good day!
 

Do you have any more photos of the exhaust, where it needed to be modified ect. I'm more than happy to take this information back to our supplier.

I've done about 700km with it now, there's certainly more sounds and feelings compared to the stock one, but I knew that was coming and I personally don't really care. Once it's warm it feels pretty standard and makes no noises anyway.

It's improved nearly every other aspect of actually driving the car and I love it. I highly recommend it!

I also popped some HSD coilovers in over the weekend. Not an overly difficult job at all. Actually I think that comes down to patience but eh.

I ordered these via @Street to Track who was really helpful! I already had an idea of what I was after, but he was able to answer any questions I had, and I had the coilovers only a fee days after ordering for a great price. I also got a braided clutch line, however didn't install that on the day.

0om2F3jl.jpg

Drove up to the garage, opened up the box and jacked up the front of the car.

kcN7yvol.jpg

For the fronts you're required to clamp a metal braked to the shock body which holds the abs sensor wire. Not too difficult at all.

UHAkj7Jl.jpg
a3uJCFYl.jpg

Once that's on, unbolt your old leaky nismo shock and slide it out of the way, and slip the new one in!

ssxjQIXl.jpg

Do the bolts up tight and re-attach the abs sensor bracket to hold the wire out of harms reach. While the car was up I also took the time to move the wheel arch loom a little closer to the body with some extra cable ties and clips.

For the back it's similar enough, I did however undo the rear swaybar as it was making the bolts a bit hard to un-do, but that's 4 bolts away from being on the floor :)

I know they're not the best coil over of all time, but they fit my needs perfectly and didn't cost too much. They're not overly uncomfortable either and it has dramatically increased the handling/feel of the car. Car has some pretty mean rear end grip with the new suspension and 1.5 way :3_grin:

I think nismo S-Tune stuff would have been great out of the box, however mine was fairly thrashed out by this stage with 2/4 shocks leaking and the car feeling very boaty/bouncy

Since then I've ordered a full water hose kit from kudos for the car so the next job is to replace the gktech replacement clutch fan with a new OEM item as my previous was starting to get the famous stress cracks along the hub and replace all of the rubber hoses in the car. While I'm in there i'll also look at buying or making a set of braided turbo lines for peace of mind.

 



 

  • 1 month later...

Went to Japan for a little bit, mucked around and checked out tourist side as well as the car side of things there which was great fun.

With that, I also brought myself a host of goodies home which I've been either giving away to friends, or adding to my car. I've so far installed the Nismo GT500 Shift Knob Titanium Version which I bought from Nismo, an endless brake sock this cool LED Flare as my car didn't come with a flare. It's basically a replica with a heap of LED's in the top and runs off a couple of AAA Batteries, pretty neat!

UDKgssSl.jpg

Anyway, so that was fun! But after driving my car for a little while which has been great fun my friend told me my centre brake light had stopped working :( So I ordered an LED replacement from eBay as some what of an experiment and I've added some pics below.

Excuse the somewhat uninteresting photos..

Started by unclipping all of the trip clips
OUphPOFl.jpg

Which leaves you with...
ZFf0Mv4l.jpg

In this case you'll need to remove the whole housing, so unbolt the two big bolts and pull it all out
Ns7LtC2l.jpg

From there you need to seperate the red lens and the housing which is held in with 2 clips.. Once this is done I plugged in the LED pannel and mounted it in place with the supplied double sided tape, and 2 tiiiiny screws.
dj3OpXMl.jpg

I put it all back together as well as put some sound deadening on the boot lid while it was all apart and gave it a test!

DydUd7pl.jpg

It's bright, quite bright actually! But honestly for a brake like I think that's a good thing anyway.. Another little job done!

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

I've got a motorkhana / wet pan day coming up this Monday which I'm keen for. I've done a few little service items to get the car in shape for it as you would for any other track day.

I started by getting a wheel alignment, I hadn't gotten a wheel alignment after installing the diff and new subframe, or the coilovers so this was well and truly overdue.
f2QU66Rl.jpg

I then took it home for a wash
2TU2Q0Ll.jpg

I also got a water temp gauge as the standard one isn't overly helpful. I'm not a huge fan of aftermarket gauges so I've put it in the glovebox with an alarm set on it. It's out of the way and can still get my attention if needed.

I started by running power and signal wires from the glovebox over to the steering column area where all the other wiring is

dSzsMeFl.jpg

Plugged in and mocked up a spot for the gauge

cp07hEml.jpg

I then put the sensor into an aeroflow temp sensor adapter I bought:

OVEy754l.jpg

And put the top rad hose back on;

pLy7n8Ml.jpg

Gave the cooling system a quick bleed, set the alarm and we're done!

euaQWdwl.jpg

Simple peace of mind mod!

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Happy new year!!

Been doing a little bit of work here and there on the car. I've since replaced the radiator with a thicker alloy radiator and while I was in there replaced the GKTech fan with a brand new Nissan item, soooo much quieter.

Picture heavy update below!

Old gear out:
IrkvFREl.jpg

New gear in:
b2dfwqPl.jpg

RPJDwurl.jpg

All finished!

Went on a bunch of drives

bu78Ya3l.jpg

PiUgNwNl.jpg

Signed up for a Motorkahna / Wet Pan day

i5aO58Ql.jpg

mg00wnLl.jpg

o5sArCtl.jpg

00jOFDSl.jpg

Which was an absolute blast, highly recommend it! This was an awesome time to really put the Nismo diff and latest suspension bits to the test. The car was a beauty to drive, no issues at all and had no problem both gripping and sliding all day.

Drove it to the track, thrashed it and drove it home.. Can't ask for more than that!

Life was good! Until i went for a quiet drive one rainy night when suddenly I could smell that hot steamy coolant smell. Both stock, and my aftermarket water temp gauges hadn't moved, but I wanted to be sure so I pulled over and good thing I did, a small hose from the inlet manifold to the oil cooler had a pinhole leak and was leaking coolant.

Turned off the car and got a mate to come rescue me with a trailer and put it in the garage.

Qndx9Nel.jpg

I think it looks mean without a bumper!

At this stage I'm working through replacing every rubber hose under the intake manifold with genuine Nissan parts which yes is expensive, but really is the best way to go about it. I've got all 14 or so rubber hoses with new metal fittings and stainless clamps for the whole lot. I'm also going to replace everything else that's under there, don't want to go back under the intake unless I really have to.

Check out the difference between a new, and the old hoses!

TgIMGG1l.jpg

More updates coming soon!
 

  • Like 2

Keep the pics coming.  Great to see people enjoying their rides safe and responsible.

Hoses do perish.  Make sure you have reasonably fresh fuel hoses too.  My 33 developed a pinhole in the pressure feed to the rail, about 2 months after it came off the boat.  Could have ended in a flaming mess on the roadside.  On inspection, there was a bulge in that pinhole area and it just gave way.

On 1/16/2018 at 8:37 AM, Dale FZ1 said:

Keep the pics coming.  Great to see people enjoying their rides safe and responsible.

Hoses do perish.  Make sure you have reasonably fresh fuel hoses too.  My 33 developed a pinhole in the pressure feed to the rail, about 2 months after it came off the boat.  Could have ended in a flaming mess on the roadside.  On inspection, there was a bulge in that pinhole area and it just gave way.

Thanks mate :)

They sure do! I've got new fuel line and a filter to replace all of the fuel lines in the engine bay while it's all apart.. Cheap and simple maintenance while it's all apart anyway

22 hours ago, mlracing said:

Those hoses are a major pain in the ass to replace but definitely worth doing

Too right mate.

In saying that, it's a good chance to do it once and do it right as well as clean up and paint a few other things that are otherwise a bit of a pain to get to.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Slowly but surely getting the job done with these hoses, glad I'm in here, there's no way these hoses have been touched since Nissan put them there, all of them are seized up and need to be cut to get off. VERY glad I decided to replace them all in one go, rather than 1 by 1 because another failure was just around the corner.

Di23qp9l.jpg

Replaced with a brand new fitting

P8L24GHl.jpg

All new hoses installed with any bad hose clamps replaced with new stainless ones.

gHQVecCl.jpg

While the car was apart it was a good time for me to give the rocker covers a coat of paint. From the factory, the Neo covers come raw and tend to soak up all sorts of oil/dirt.

Gave them a good wash with degreaser and the pressure washer before masking them up for paint.

EU9G5cHl.jpg

Being raw alloy I used some etch primer on them, I used this back on my intercooler piping and had great results.

vW0vRfrl.jpg

And to finish them off, hit them with a low gloss/quick dry black.

vtpYBPDl.jpg

I then replaced the gaskets with new ones using a "Platinum Gaskets" kit, just from eBay, this came with the gaskets, half moons, bolt seals and an oil cap gasket all for $70, pretty happy with that.

QqFJcafl.jpg

They fit pretty well and seem like a tight fit, I guess time will tell. The good thing is they are blue, if they do leak it will be very visible and I can replace them with OEM items but honestly it's a rocker cover, not an oil pump.. :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...