Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Value Bolt-in Intercooler Upgrade R32 Gt-r

HarrisRacing
 Share

Recommended Posts

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

I'm almost done with my 2.75L stroker single-tubo build. I am planning on breaking in and tuning the initial setup with 3" mandrel exhaust (I had a lot of the stuff already and NONE for 3.5"), and the factory FMIC. I'm pretty sure I'll be past the 500 whp mark on pump gas and will be running before and after IAT sensors in the intercooler just to check to see how it handles the boost / temps of the EFR 8374 turbo. My setup is based around response and for now will be limited to pumpgas and only 21 psi boost. I am thinking that the stock FMIC will keep up with this demand with such an efficient turbo especially plumbed in single (ie - less radiant and conductive heat on piping, etc).

That being said, I will need an upgrade because this turbo is capable of 750-800 HP later at higher boost. What is available to BOLT IN and fit up in the factory location for piping and which is the best for the money? I'm in the USA.

Patrick

Meathead Collaborator

Meathead

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have this one http://www.arc-brazing.co.jp/intercooler.html (M079) runs at Suzuka 2 hours nonstop (well once to refuel) and it keeps IAT perfect.

The 100mm ones may take away from response a tiny bit, probably overkill. I removed a Trust 100mm drag IC and response improved and temps were the same. HKS make good ones too.

I am in the middle of fitting a 8374IWG like you from 5s on a 2.8 stroker and it should be easily adequate.

:cheers:

Edited by Meathead
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I have this one http://www.arc-brazing.co.jp/intercooler.html (M073) runs at Suzuka 2 hours nonstop (well once to refuel) and it keeps IAT perfect.

The thicker one 100mm may take away from response a tiny bit, probably overkill. HKS make good ones to.

I am in the middle of fitting a 8374IWG like you from 5s on a 2.8 stroker and it should be easily adequate.

:cheers:

It baffles me why ARC don't make the M109 anymore for the 32-34 GTR's.
  • Like 1
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

It baffles me why ARC don't make the M109 anymore for the 32-34 GTR's.

Thought they had gone bust...

OK I see they have been resurrected:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1487145

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

as much as I like PWR radiators and oil coolers (I use their radiator).. I'm not a fan of their Intercoolers.. just look at those end tanks.... basic bro science says it doesn't flow that well in terms of efficiently/equally

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

as much as I like PWR radiators and oil coolers (I use their radiator).. I'm not a fan of their Intercoolers.. just look at those end tanks.... basic bro science says it doesn't flow that well in terms of efficiently/equally

My untrained and non qualified eye agrees with you. I'm interested what GTSboy has to say.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The GTR coolers they do are probably not terrible. At least the tanks are relatively large and have some shape. They probably look a lot worse than they really are.

The top and bottom tank cooler for R32-3 GTSt is just yucky. Those are a bad idea at any time, let alone when not executed well. Will not bang.

The return flow thingo for R34 GTT is possibly worse. Whilst the return flow idea is better than the top-bottom idea of the R32-3.....the execution is just ridiculously amateurish. Just horrible. The driver's side tank is an abomination of epic proportions

Having said that....I had to build (get built) a new intercooler for my car after the original truck cored one (built last century) was destroyed by an elderly Greek f**ker in an EB Falcon. I got a PWR core. The cores are good. I just got the (return flow) tanks made locally to the same basic pattern as my original.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...